PASSING between the point of _Vale_ and Herm, we are directly off the
harbour of _St. Peters Port_, its fort of _Castle Cornet_ crowning an
isolated granite rock, southward of the pier, which now connects it with
the shore, and forms the harbour of refuge. The coup d’œil assumes a
perfect Norman aspect, and the costume, dialect, and manners are in just
harmony with the scene. The marine quarter of the “town,” as it is _par
excellence_ termed (and indeed there is no other in Guernsey),
especially the old church, the hotels, and wineshops, of dark grey
stone, with which the quay is lined, is perfectly _continental_. The
shops and offices, of more modern aspect, compose the streets; the
dwellings of the opulent, among which _Castle Carey_ is conspicuous, are
chiefly on terraces along the abrupt escarpment; _Elizabeth College_,
the modern church, and the _Victoria Tower_, by the cemetery, on the new
ground, being the most prominent public objects. The old church on the
quay, dating about 1120, is crucial, the interior being darkened by its
massive columns and heavy galleries.
The marble slabs of the fish-market are profusely supplied with choice
fish—turbot, dorey, and very fine crustacea; and the stalls teem in the
season with the treasures of Pomona.
The education at the College is economical, about £12 per annum; the
cost for living with the Principal not exceeding £60.
The influence of this facility of learning will enlighten the minds even
of the unlettered islanders, among whom there is a prevalent
superstition. The belief in witchcraft may still be discerned, although
it is now two centuries since women were tortured, hung, and burned
under this demoniac creed.
The scenic quality both of the interior and of the eastern and northern
coasts of Guernsey is mere prettiness. On the south, however, from
Fermains Bay to Rocquaine it is buttressed by some of the most
magnificent rocks in the Channel, the land gradually descending from
them northward. The coast rocks on the east, south-east, south, and
south-west, from Saline to Rocquaine, are of _gneiss_, those of
Rocquaine are of _schist_, and thence they are _granitic_.
A line from Vagon Bay on the west through Catel to Amherst cuts the
islet into two unequal parts, differing in geological character. Much of
the bed of the northern portion is alluvial; some, indeed, embanked from
the sea by General Doyle. The southern is a more elevated platform, and
consists of a series of undulating hills, and sloping bosky lanes, and
little glens with rippling runnels, until the highest downs dip at once
into the waves their magnificent gneiss cliffs, rounding into beautiful
bays, embossed with outlying rocks, and worn into clefts and fissures,
or running up into exquisite little dingles. This magnificence is
confined to the south; the sea and coast views, however, to the east,
are finely backed by the islets of Herm and Jedthou, and the more
distant ridge of Serque.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account