The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2) — John Shaqi
The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
History
The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady, 1770-1845 -- Diaries
From Vienna we went to Venice by the road of Gratz, thro’ Styria and
Carinthia. On our arrival at Venice Mr. Ellis was dangerously ill of
a putrid fever. He recovered by the care of a Jew doctor. We stayed a
short time after his recovery; went by way of Mantua to Parma. From
thence to Bologna and Florence. Mr. Ellis left us at Florence to return
to England. We went on by the road of Radicofani to Rome (where we
staid only two nights), then to Naples, which we reached about the 2nd
week in October.
As soon as I was a little rested after my journey I began to see
the wonderful environs, both of natural and artificial curiosities.
The English society was composed of many of my friends; the
Palmerstons,[26] Miss Carter, Sr. Charles Blagden, Dss. of Ancaster,
Ly. Plymouth with whom I became intimate. Soon came the Bessboroughs
(the old Father died), Ly. Spencer, Dss. of Devonshire, Ly. E. Foster,
Mr. Pelham. In January the French fleet came and menaced Naples with a
bombardment.[27] They were moored in front of my house on the Chiaia.
I was brought to bed of my son Henry, on ye 10th Feb., 1793. I made
my _grossesse_ a pretext for staying at home in the evening. I
went out every morning to see the objects most worthy of notice, and
the evening I always passed with friends who came to see me, Drew,
Mr. Pelham, and Italinski,[28] a Russian who grew much attached to my
society.
[Sidenote: ROAD TO PAESTUM]
_March 22nd._--We set off for Paestum. Our party consisted of
the Palmerstons, Miss Carter, a Mr. Poor (a very eccentric man), and
Mr. Pelham. About two miles from Pompeia the country begins to be
pretty, and we got more amongst the Apennines. The road is excellent,
it being made by ye King to go to a _chasse_ of his at Eboli. La
Cava and Vietri are charmingly situated in their different styles;
the first has all the beauties of social life, small neat cottages
interspersed amongst vineyards, olives, and myrtles, upon the side of
a hill inclining towards a small torrent. The whiteness of the houses
contrasted with the verdure of spring vegetation in the foreground,
and the boldness of the scraggy rocks behind make a lovely picture and
fill the mind with pleasing sensations at the sight of comfort and
tranquillity, a lot that rarely befalls the peasantry of France and
England. There is an aqueduct traditionally called Abelard’s bridge;
why, the learned must determine, for I never knew that victim to love
left his native France. Vietri is situated upon a rock above the sea,
into which it abruptly ends; it commands a noble view of the bay of
Salerno. With a glass from hence one may discern the temples of Paestum
on the opposite coast. Salerno is a pretty little town upon the edge of
the sea; the detail of the country is charming. On the right side of
the bay is Amalfi, remarkable for being the spot where the Justinian
Code was discovered. The Cathedral at Salerno is curious; in it are
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