The journal of Frederick Horneman's travels, from Cairo to Mourzouk, the capital of the kingdom of Fezzan, in Africa, in the years 1797-8 — John Shaqi
The journal of Frederick Horneman's travels, from Cairo to Mourzouk, the capital of the kingdom of Fezzan, in Africa, in the years 1797-8Hornemann, Friedrich
History
The journal of Frederick Horneman's travels, from Cairo to Mourzouk, the capital of the kingdom of Fezzan, in Africa, in the years 1797-8
Hornemann, Friedrich
Berber languages; Fezzan (Libya) -- Description and travel; Libyan Desert -- Description and travel
Our watering-place consisted of pools of mere rain water from the
hills, and was situate at the edge of a valley of about six miles
circuit, shewing not only a rich verdure, but bearing shrubs and
trees. Here we saw some _gazelles_, but so shy, that we could not
get a shot at them.
We passed our _tenth_, _eleventh_, and _twelfth_ days incessantly
almost in march through this dreary solitude; yet we could not
expedite our journey as we wished. Sometimes we were obliged to
wander from our direct line with the windings of our only path; at
other times we were forced to move on slowly and with difficulty,
over layers of loose stone for half a mile together: in the course of
one of those days, I ventured on a walk to the _south_, accompanied
by my Arabian servant and some _Twaters_. We could easily, on foot,
outstrip the caravan under all its impediments of march. Every where I
found the mountains of like appearance as exhibited to the traveller
on the common road, with the only difference that views even more
dreary and terrific occasionally caught the eye: it having been matter
of course to work and conduct the road along the least rugged vallies.
On the afternoon of the _thirteenth_ day, we broke at length from
this dark region into an extensive plain. Here we continued on march
for some hours, when we came to ranges of low calcareous mountains,
and about sunset encamped at the entrance of the defile which leads
through them.
On the morning of the _fifteenth_ I placed myself among the foremost
of the caravan, consisting chiefly of poor pilgrims, hastening to
precede the other company, with a view of first quenching their
thirst at the spring, which on that day we were to arrive at. On
coming to the watering-place called _Ennaté_ I perceived a _well_
already cleaned and in order, and several _Twaters_ lying round. I
placed myself near and prepared for breakfast. An old man had
laboured a shorter cut across the sand to be sooner at the well;
after mutual salutation, I offered him a handful of dates and some
meat; these he thankfully accepted, kissing them and rubbing them
on his forehead. Putting the provisions down on the ground, he got
to the spring, and continued drinking for a considerable time, and
recited his prayer _Elham-Dulillah_ with great devotion. He told me,
that for three days past he had been without his requisite portion
of water. This man (as himself told me), was above sixty years
old; and this was his third voyage from _Fez_ to _Mecca_, without
possessing the least means of accommodation for the journey; without
preparation of food for his subsistence; nay, even without water,
excepting what commiseration and the esteem in which his pilgrimage
was held, might procure for him, from the charity and regard of
travellers better provided in the caravan.
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