THE JOURNAL OF MONTAIGNE’S TRAVELS IN ITALY [Illustration: _Michel de Montaigne_] ͆ THE JOURNAL OF MONTAIGNE’S TRAVELS IN ITALY BY WAY OF SWITZERLAND AND GERMANY IN 1580 AND 1581 TRANSLATED AND EDITED WITH AN INTRODUCTION AND NOTES BY W. G. WATERS AUTHOR OF “JEROME CARDAN,” ETC. IN THREE VOLUMES VOL. I LONDON JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET 1903 PREFACE Up to February 16, 1581, the “Journal” of Montaigne’s travels was written down from dictation by a confidential servant, who seems to have combined the duties of secretary and valet. On the date aforesaid Montaigne either dismissed him or gave him leave of absence, and set to work to keep the diary himself. The portion of the “Journal” written by the secretary presents certain difficulties in translation, seeing that he wrote sometimes in the first and sometimes in the third person, and occasionally had to describe events which happened in his absence, but as far as possible uniform diction has been secured. In the earlier part Montaigne added divers notes to the margin of the MS. in his own handwriting, thus showing that he revised that portion which he did not write. From May 15, to November 1, 1581, Montaigne used the Italian tongue, reverting to French as soon as he crossed Mont Cenis. A translation of the “Journal” was made by W. Hazlitt in 1842 and annexed to his edition of Cotton’s “Essays.” In a recent reprint of the “Essays” and of all the extant “Letters,” Mr. W. C. Hazlitt, in an introduction, remarks, as a reason for not including the “Journal,” that it is all in the third person, and was dictated by Montaigne to his secretary, being unaware, apparently, that more than half of it was written in the first person by Montaigne himself. The portions of the “Journal” which deal with Montaigne’s sojourn at the baths of Lucca are full of details of the symptoms of the malady which troubled him, and of the results of the curative treatment. In these it has been thought permissible to abbreviate some passages and to omit others entirely, seeing that they are at the same time valueless and unpleasant. But not a word which refers to any matter of general interest has been repressed; uninteresting medical details alone have been left out. W. G. WATERS. _August 1903._ CONTENTS CHAP. PAGE INTRODUCTION 1 I. FRANCE 25 II. SWITZERLAND 60 III. THE EMPIRE 97 IV. TIROL 159 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS VOL. I MICHEL DE MONTAIGNE (_Photogravure_) _Frontispiece_ MEAUX _To face page_ 26 BASEL ” 62 BADEN EN ARGOW ” 76 CONSTANCE ” 96