The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
Philosophy
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
Meaux is a small and handsome town on the Marne, divided into three
parts. The town itself and its suburbs are on this side of the river
towards Paris, and over the Marne lies another portion--the third--a
large suburb known as the Marché, surrounded on all sides by the
river and a well-constructed ditch, and containing many houses and
inhabitants. This place was formerly strongly fortified by high and
formidable walls and towers, but in the second period of our Huguenot
troubles, the greater part of the inhabitants being of that party, all
these defences were thrown down. This quarter also withstood the attack
of the English, the other portions of the town being ruined, and by way
of reward the inhabitants of the Marché are still exempted from payment
of _taille_ and other taxes. They point out in the Marne an island, two
or three hundred feet in length, which was, they say, originally an
embankment made by the English as a position from which the fortress of
the Marché might be bombarded by warlike engines, the artificial work
having become firm ground in the course of time.[4] In this faubourg
we saw the abbey of Saint Faron, a building of great antiquity, where
they show certain chambers in which Ogier the Dane[5] is said to have
dwelt. There is also an ancient refectory, with tables of stone, very
long and massive, and of an unwonted size, and in the middle of this
hall was formerly a spring of fresh water which served for drinking.
To this day most of the monks are men of gentle birth. Amongst other
things is to be seen an ancient and stately tomb, upon which are carved
in stone the figures of two knights of abnormal stature, and legend
says that these represent Ogier the Dane and one of his paladins. It
has neither inscription nor armorial device, nothing save a sentence
in Latin which an abbot caused to be set thereon some hundred years
ago, recording that two unknown heroes lie buried below; and in the
treasury they still show the bones of these knights, the bone of the
arm, from shoulder to elbow, being about the length of the entire arm
of a man of average stature in these days, and a little longer than
that of M. de Montaigne. They show likewise two of their swords, about
the length of our own two-handed swords, the edges gapped by strokes
of battle. At Meaux, M. de Montaigne paid a visit to the treasurer of
the church of St. Stephen, one Juste Terrelle,[6] a man of note amongst
the savants of France, a little old man, sixty years of age, who has
visited Egypt and Jerusalem, and lived seven years in Constantinople.
He showed us his library and the curiosities of his garden, where the
most wonderful thing we saw was a tree of box of round growth, and so
thick by artificial cutting, that it seemed to be a circular ball,
massive and trim, about a man’s height.
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