The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3) — John Shaqi
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
Philosophy
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
We saw some men cured of ulcers and others of pimples on the body.
The wonted course is a month at least, and rooms are let most readily
in May. Few people frequent the place after the month of August, by
reason of the cold, but we found much company there still, because the
heat and drought had been abnormally prolonged. Amongst others, M.
de Montaigne gained the friendship and acquaintance of the Seigneur
d’Andelot of Franche Conté,[24] the son of the master of the horse of
the Emperor Charles V. He himself was chief field-marshal in the army
of Don John of Austria, and he held the governorship of St. Quentin
after we lost the place. One portion of his beard and one side of his
eyebrow had become white, and he told M. de Montaigne how this change
had come about in a moment of time, on a certain day when he was filled
with distress over the death of one of his brothers, whom the Duke of
Alva had put to death as an accomplice of the Counts Egmont and Horn.
He was sitting resting his head upon his hand, which touched the places
beforenamed, wherefore his attendants, when they saw what had happened
to him, deemed that some flour must have fallen upon him by accident.
He has been like this ever since.
This bath was formerly used only by Germans, but for several years past
the people of Franche Conté and France have come in great numbers.
There are several baths, and the principal one is built oval in shape,
after the fashion of an ancient edifice. It is thirty-five paces long
and fifteen wide. The hot water rises from several springs, and cold
water is made to trickle down into the bath so that the heat may be
moderated according to the taste of those who use it. The places in
the bath are set out side by side by bars suspended like those in our
stables, and planks are laid over the top so as to keep off the heat of
the sun and the rain. The visitors in this place maintain a singular
propriety of carriage, and it is reckoned indecent for men to bathe
naked or with less clothing than a little jacket, or for women to wear
less than a chemise. We lodged at the “Angel,” which is the best house,
because it communicates with two of the baths. The charge for lodging,
when several rooms were engaged, was no more than fifteen sous a day.
The hosts supply all wood for this charge, but the country is so rich
therein that it costs nothing but the cutting, and the hostesses do
exceedingly well in the kitchens. When the high season comes a lodging
like this one would cost a crown a day, and be cheap at the price.
Horse feed is seven sous a day, and everything else the visitor needs
to buy is good and reasonable in price. The chambers are not sumptuous,
but very convenient, and, by reason of the numerous galleries, there is
never need to pass through one to reach another; but the wine and bread
are bad. The people are worthy, independent, sensible, and obliging.
All the laws of the land are religiously observed, and every year they
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