The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3) — John Shaqi
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
Philosophy
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
painter of the place did for a crown, and the hostess caused it to be
hung up on the outside wall.
On the 27th of September, after dinner, we set forth and traversed a
mountainous country, the soil of which resounded under our horses’ feet
as if we were going over a vault, or even as if men were beating drums
all around us. At the end of two leagues we stopped for the night at
Remiremont, a fair little town, where we found excellent lodging at the
“Unicorn”: indeed, in all the towns of Lorraine, and this was the last
of them, the traveller finds as convenient lodging and as excellent
fare as in any part of France. At Remiremont is that famous abbey of
religious women of the same rank as those of Poussai before described.
They claim, as against M. de Lorrene,[26] the sovereignty and ownership
of this town. M. d’Estissac and M. de Montaigne paid them a visit
very soon after their arrival, and inspected several of the sets of
lodgings, all of which were very seemly and well furnished. The abbess,
of the family of D’Inteville, had lately died, and they were about to
elect another to the office, the sister of the Count de Salmes being a
candidate. They also went to see the _doyenne_, a member of the house
of Lutre, a lady who had done M. de Montaigne the honour of sending to
greet him while he was at Plommieres, despatching also a supply of
artichokes and partridges, and a barrel of wine for his use. Messieurs
were informed that certain neighbouring villages are bound to deliver
on the day of Pentecost every year two bowls of snow; and, failing
these, a cart equipped with four white oxen. It is said that they never
fail to find snow for their rent, but it is certain that, when we were
there, the heat was as great as is felt at any season in Gascony. The
nun’s dress is a white veil, worn on the head, and a little lappel of
crape over it. Their robes are black, made of any stuff and pattern
they may choose, while on the premises, but otherwise they may wear
colours, petticoats to their liking, and shoes and pattens; and dress
their hair under the veil in ordinary fashion. Each nun must be
descended from at least four noble houses on the father’s side and the
mother’s as well. Messieurs took leave of the ladies at eventide. Early
on the morrow we set forth, and after we had mounted, the _doyenne_
sent a gentleman to M. de Montaigne begging him to go to her. He went,
and this visit cost us an hour’s delay. This society of ladies gave
him procuration to deal with their affairs at Rome. After we left we
followed for some distance a lovely and pleasant valley, skirting the
banks of the Moselle, and reached Bossan,[27] four leagues distant, in
time for dinner.
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