The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
Philosophy
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
Ladies who are fain to take their bath with daintiness and decency can
repair to Baden with confidence, for they will be alone in the bath,
which is like an elegant cabinet, light, with glazed windows, painted
panelling, and clean flooring. Everywhere are chairs and small tables
for reading or gaming while in the bath. The bather may empty and fill
the bath as often as he likes, and will find a chamber adjoining.
There are fine walks along the river, besides artificial ones under
galleries. These baths are placed in a valley commanded by the slopes
of high mountains, which nevertheless are fertile and well cultivated.
The water when drunk tastes rather flat and soft, like water heated
up, and there is a smell of sulphur about it, and a certain prickling
flavour of salt. Amongst the people of the place it is chiefly used
in the bath, in which they subject themselves also to cupping and
bleeding, so that I have at times seen the water in the two public
baths the colour of blood. Those who drink it by habit take a glass or
two at the most. The guests as a rule stay six or seven weeks, and
some or other frequent the baths all through the summer. No country
sends so many visitors as Germany, from whence come great crowds.
The practice of bathing here is of high antiquity and is remarked by
Tacitus,[42] who searched to the utmost to find the chief spring, but
could get no knowledge thereof; but apparently the springs rise from
a great depth below the level even of the river. The water is less
clear than that of the other springs we have seen, and when drawn
from the spring it shows certain minute fibres. Moreover, it contains
no sparkling bubbles like other sulphurous waters when the glass is
filled; like those of Spa, for instance, of which M. de Maldonat told
us. M. de Montaigne took some of it on the Monday morning after we
arrived, seven small glasses, and on the next day five large glasses,
amounting to ten of the aforesaid. On this same day, Tuesday, at nine
in the morning, while the others were at table, he took a bath and fell
into a heavy sweat in bed afterwards, having stayed in the bath only
half-an-hour. The people of the country, who stay all day in the bath
playing and drinking, stand only up to the middle in water, but M. de
Montaigne lay full length and was covered to the neck.[43]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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