The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
Philosophy
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
On Friday, October 7th, at seven in the morning, after breakfast, we
quitted Baden; and, before we set out, M. de Montaigne drank the same
quantity of the water as he had taken on five previous occasions. With
regard to the operation of the same, concerning which he was more
sanguine than he was in the case of any other bath he had visited (both
as to the bathing and the drinking), he was free in his praise of these
baths beyond all the rest, not only because the place itself, and the
baths and the private apartments, are comfortably and conveniently
managed, but also because, in all apartments, visitors are always
able to go to their own rooms without passing through the rooms of
other people. Moreover, persons of small means may find quarters to
suit them quite as easily as those who are rich. Bathrooms, kitchens,
cabinets, and chapels may be hired for a large retinue, and at the
house adjacent to our own, the Cour de la Ville--ours being the Cour
de derrière--there are public apartments belonging to the cantonal
authorities, and occupied by lodgers. This same house has several
chimneys built in French fashion, and there are stoves in all the
chief apartments. The demand for payment from strangers is a little
arbitrary, as in all countries and notably in our own. Four furnished
chambers, with nine beds in all, two of which had stoves and one bath
besides, cost us a crown a day for the masters, and for the servants
four batzen:[46] that is to say, a little more than nine sous apiece;
the horses cost six batzen, about four sous, but in addition to this
they added certain nonsensical charges which were not customary. A
guard is kept in the town and even in the bath quarter, which is
nothing but a village, and every night two sentinels make the round of
the houses, not so much to keep off the foe, as for fear of fire or
other disturbance. When the hour strikes one of them is bound to cry
out at the top of his voice to the other, and ask what is the hour,
whereupon the other in like manner tells him the hour, and adds that he
is keeping good watch. The women do their washing in the open in the
public place, bringing out their little wooden tubs to the river side
where they heat water and do their work excellently; they also clean
the earthenware far better than do our French women in the inns. Here
each chambermaid and each valet has a special charge.
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