The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
Philosophy
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
To show how little of the braggart was in him it may be noted that when
he visited the church of S. Lorenzo at Florence he did not refrain
from naming, amongst the other sights he saw there, the French banners
captured from Marshal Strozzi’s forces by the Florentines, and when
on his way home he passed by Fornovo, the scene of the great French
victory in 1495, does not allude to the battle at all. On the other
hand, he expressly records that he turned aside from the road between
Pavia and Milan to view the field of the battle so disastrous to the
arms of France.
The bent of Montaigne’s mind led him to devote his chief attention to
the rules and institutions which regulated public life in the lands he
visited, rather than to what modern travellers call “sights,” and in
Fynes Moryson’s travels about ten, and in Coryat’s about thirty years
later, the same tendencies appear. When at any time he does describe
any human achievement, it is usually some mechanical device, such as
the watch-tower and the water-works at Augsburg. Italy was rich, or
probably much richer, in paintings than she is now, but only on three
or four occasions does he find any worth mentioning. Nevertheless he
writes pages in praise of the ridiculous squirts and tubes which are
devised to drench the unwary visitors to Italian gardens now, just as
they did at the time when he was on his travels. Artificial water-works
of all sorts seem to have had a peculiar fascination for him: indeed
on his way back to France he paid a second visit to Pratolino, near
Florence, in order to compare the merits of the fountains there with
those which he had seen at Tivoli. He ends the description of his
expedition with the following thoroughly characteristic sentences: “Et
essendo pregato dal casiero del palazzo di dire la mia sentenzia di
quelle bellezze e di Tivoli, ne discorsi non comparando questi luoghi
in generale, ma parte per parte, con le diverse considerazioni dell’un
e dell’altro, essendo vicendevolmente vittore ora questo, or quello.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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