The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
History
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
On our departure from this place we passed a very fine house belonging
to a Paduan gentleman, where M. le Cardinal d’Este[24] was then
sojourning. He was sick with gout and had been there more than two
months for the sake of the baths, but more on account of the near
vicinity of the ladies of Venice and all sorts of diversion. Thence
we travelled eight miles to Bataille,[25] where we arrived in time
for bed. This is a small village on the canal of Fraichine[26] which,
having not more than two or three feet of water, is navigated by boats
of a very strange fashion. There we were served on earthen dishes and
on plates of wood and not of pewter, but otherwise we did not fare
badly. On the Monday morning I myself[27] went on ahead with the mule
while the others visited the baths[28] situated some five hundred
paces distant along the bank of the canal. From M. de Montaigne’s
description, they found there only one bath-house, with ten or twelve
chambers. In May and August a number of visitors come, but these for
the most part lodge in the village or in the castle of Seigneur Pic,
where also lodged M. le Cardinal d’Este. The bathwater comes down from
a small mountain ridge, and runs through channels into the houses
below. The patients do not drink thereof but rather of the water of S.
Pierre[29] which is fetched for them. The water in its descent from the
ridge runs beside other channels of good sweet water, and it is hotter
or colder in ratio to the length of its course. M. de Montaigne was
for investigating the source up above, but no one could point it out
to him, and indeed it appeared that it had a subterraneous origin. He
found that it left little taste in the mouth, like that of S. Pierre,
and that it was scarcely sulphurous or salt at all; moreover, that
its effect when drunk would resemble that of the water aforesaid. In
the bath-house there are other chambers where the water only comes in
by drops under which any affected member is placed, and they told M.
de Montaigne that the forehead was the part most often treated for
ailments of the head. At certain points on these channels small cabins
of stone have been constructed, to which the patients may repair, and
having opened the hole communicating with the channel, they quickly
fall into a sweat through the exhalations and heat of the water. There
are also rooms for dry heat, made in various fashions, but mud baths
are what they chiefly use. This treatment is practised in a large
bath below the bath-house and open to the sky, fitted with a machine
by which the mud is pumped up to the house adjacent. Here are provided
divers appliances of wood made to fit each limb--legs, arms, thighs
and other parts--wherein the member to be treated is placed and the
appliance filled with mud, which is renewed as often as is needed.
This mud is as black as that of Barbotan, but less full of grains
and more greasy, moderately hot and quite odourless. The nearness to
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