The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
History
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
We found ourselves now upon a high bank made beside the river, with
marshes on either side more than fifteen miles in extent, and as wide
as the eye could compass. In other days there were extensive swamps
which the Signiory attempted to drain and bring under cultivation. In
some places success has been achieved, but in very few. At present the
view is over a muddy sterile country, thick set with cane growth, the
attempt to change its character having resulted in loss rather than
gain. We crossed the Adisse[31] on a floating bridge which was placed
on two small boats, and was capable of carrying fifteen or twenty
horses; passing over by a rope fastened to a point some five hundred
paces distant in the water. To keep this rope aloft several small boats
are stationed here and there and fitted with forked poles which hold up
the long cord. After a journey of twenty-five miles we arrived in time
for bed at Rovigo, a small town belonging to the Signiory aforesaid.
Here they gave us salt in lumps, which the people take as if it were
sugar. There is as great abundance of provision here as in France,
in spite of what has been said to the contrary. They do not lard
their roast meat, but the savour thereof is not much affected by this
omission. The chambers in the matter of glass windows and shutters are
inferior to our own, but the beds are better made and smoother, with an
abundant supply of mattresses. They are fitted, however, almost always
with small ill-fashioned canopies, and the supply of white sheets
is meagre. Of these, indeed, a solitary traveller, or one with mean
equipage, would most likely go lacking altogether. Charges were the
same, or perhaps a trifle higher than in France. In this town was born
the good Celius, surnamed _Rodoginus_.[32] It is a very handsome place
with a fine square, and the river Adisse flowing through it.
On the morning of Tuesday, November 15, we departed, and after going
some long distance along a causeway like the one at Blois, we crossed,
first the Adisse and then the Po on floating bridges like that of
the day antecedent, save that on the bridges last-named are cabins
where they take payment for the transit according to the printed and
prescribed regulations, and, moreover, stop the raft in the middle of
the stream to do their reckoning and exact payment from all passengers
before suffering them to land. After disembarking on a low-lying plain,
over which the road must be impassable in rainy weather, we journeyed
in one spell to Ferrara, arriving there at eventide, after travelling
twenty miles.
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