The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
History
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
From what was told him it appeared that lodgings were only to be had
at the hostelries, and the private apartments which he saw were far
more costly than those of Paris, or even of Venice. The table was
mean, and cost more than twelve crowns per mensem for the gentlefolk.
In this city no seemly diversion was to be had, neither in arms, nor
horsemanship, nor letters.[59] Pewter ware is very scarce in these
parts, the service being made on vessels of painted earthenware none
too clean.
VI
JOURNEY TO ROME
On the morning of Thursday, November 24, we departed and found
ourselves in a country fairly fertile, thickly peopled, and everywhere
under tillage. The road was uneven and stony, and, after a very long
journey, we arrived late at night at Siena, thirty-two miles, or four
posts, which here they reckon of eight miles, somewhat longer than
ours usually are. On the Friday we examined the place carefully,
especially with respect to our own military operations therein.[60]
The site of the city is very irregular, for it is built on the
ridge of a hill, where most of the streets are to be found. Other
thoroughfares lead down the slopes on either side by means of steps,
some of these mounting the opposite hill to various levels. The city
is about the same size as Florence, and one of the fairest of Italy,
but not of the first order, its great antiquity being proclaimed by
its aspect. Everywhere fountains are plentiful, but it is said that
individual persons draw water privately from the conduits for their
particular use. Here are to be found fine cool cellars. The Dome,
which is scarcely inferior to that at Florence, is covered almost
entirely within and without with marble of the place: square pieces,
some a foot thick, some less, are used for panelling the same, for they
always cover thus buildings of brick, the common building material
of this land. The most beautiful portion of the city is the circular
market-place, a fine expanse which slopes from all sides towards
the palace, which in itself forms one of the segments of the circle,
somewhat less curved than the rest. In front of the palace, and at the
highest point of the market-place, is a very beautiful fountain, which
discharges itself by several pipes, and fills a great basin where any
one may take at will the purest water.[61] Several streets open into
this place, the pavement being set in steps. In the town are many
streets, certain of them being very ancient. The chief of these is the
Piccolomini, then the Tolomei, the Colombini and the Cerretani.[62]
We saw indications of an antiquity of three or four hundred years. The
arms of the city, which are displayed on columns in several places,
represent the she-wolf which gave suck to Romulus and Remus.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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