The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
History
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
On the morrow I departed after dinner, and passed by a vast ruin on the
right-hand side of the road, which is by report six miles in extent.
This was formerly a villa, and known as the _prædium_ of the Emperor
Adrian.[130] The road from Tivoli to Rome crosses a rivulet impregnated
with sulphur. The banks of the stream are all white therewith, and the
stench may be smelt half a league away, but no medicinal use is made
of the water. In this stream may be found divers little substances
compounded of the scum of the water, which are so much like our
medicinal powder that few could tell the difference, and the people
of Tivoli make out of this same material all sorts of medicaments,
two boxes of which I bought for seven sous and six deniers. In Tivoli
are divers antiquities, two terminal images of a very ancient shape,
and the remains of a temple with several columns still perfect, which
legend declares to have been the temple of the ancient Sibyl. However,
on the cornice thereof there may still be seen five or six large
letters; but this inscription seems to have been left unfinished, for
the stonework beyond them is still intact. Whether any other letters
preceded these I know not, as on that side the wall is ruined. All that
are now visible run as follows: Ce ... Ellius L. F. What may be their
signification I cannot say.
[Illustration: THE TEMPLE OF THE SIBYL AT TIVOLI
_To face p. 174_, vol. ii.
]
In the evening we arrived at Rome after a journey of fifteen miles.
I travelled in a coach without any tedium or discomfort, a rare
experience with me. The people here pay more careful heed to one
particular usage than in any other place; that is to say, for the
sake of health they find out the different characteristics of the
various streets and quarters of the city, and even of the suites of
apartments in their houses. This consideration is held to be of such
high importance that they always change their residence according to
the seasons. Even those who live in hired dwellings maintain at great
cost three or four houses, so that they may shift at the proper season
according to the advice of their physicians.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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