The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
History
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
On the 15th of April I went to take leave of the Maestro del Sacro
Palazzo[131] and his associate. They begged me “to pay no regard to
the censures which had been passed upon my book; censures which,
as certain Frenchmen had informed them, contained many ignorant
statements: they declared that they honoured my purpose, my affection
towards the Church, and my ability: that they rated my good breeding
and conscientiousness highly enough to allow me at my own discretion
to cut out of my book with my own hand, at the next reprinting of the
same, any passages which might seem too plain spoken, and amongst
others those remarks about Fortune.” It seemed to me that they were not
ill pleased with me: moreover, to justify their careful examination
of my book and their condemnation of the same in divers particulars,
they instanced several contemporary books, written by cardinals and
ecclesiastical personages of high repute, which had been censured for
blots of a like character, the good name of the author and the book
itself having been left quite scatheless thereby. They ended by begging
me to give the Church the benefit of my eloquence (these are their
usual _mots de courtoisie_) and to make my abode with them in this
peaceful and untroubled city. Both of these men were of high authority
and competent for the cardinalate.
We tasted artichokes, beans, and peas about the middle of March.
In April it is light at what they call ten hours,[132] and, as I well
believe, at nine when the days are at their longest.
It was at this time that I made the acquaintance of a certain Pole, who
had been the most intimate friend of Cardinal Hosius.[133] This man
presented to me two copies of a book which he had written with great
care concerning the cardinal’s death. The pleasure of a sojourn in
this city becomes vastly greater by usage. I never breathed air more
pleasant or more healthy to my temperament.
On the 18th of April I went to view the inside of the palace of Signor
Giov. Giorgio Cesarini, which contains countless rare antiquities, the
most noteworthy of which are the authentic busts of Zeno, Possidonius,
Euripides, and Carneades, according to the very ancient Greek
inscriptions which are thereon. I saw also portraits of the fairest
Roman ladies of the present day and of the owner’s wife, the Signora
Clælia Fascia Farnese, who, though she may not be the most beautiful,
is assuredly the most amiable lady in Rome; or, for all I know, in the
whole world.[134] This nobleman boasts descent from the race of the
Cæsars, and by this right carries the banner of the Roman nobility.
He is a rich man, and he bears for arms the column with the bear
attached thereto, and above the column an eagle with outspread wings.
The vineyards are amongst the most beautiful features of Rome, and
these are in season in midsummer.
[Illustration: PALAZZO FARNESE
_Reproduced from Piranesi’s Views of Rome_
_To face p. 178_, vol. ii.
]
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