The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
History
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
This little town belongs to the Church. It stands on the top of a rock
at the base of which flows the river Negra, or in Latin _Nar_, one side
of the town being situated so as to overlook a pleasant plain through
which the river goes joyously along and winds in marvellous fashion. In
the public place is a very fine fountain. I went to see the cathedral,
and remarked that the tapestry therein bears divers inscriptions and
rhymes written in our old French tongue. I was not able to ascertain
whence it came, although I learned from the people of the place that
they had always been well disposed towards our nation. This tapestry
shows forth the story of the Passion and occupies one entire side of
the nave. For the reason that Pliny declares that in this country is
found a certain sort of earth which softens with the heat and dries up
in the rain, I made inquiries of the inhabitants concerning the same,
but they could tell me nought thereof. About a mile distant there are
some springs of cold water which work the same effects as our hot ones.
Certain patients still make trial of them, but they are in no great
repute. The inn, judged by the Italian standard, was a good one. We had
no candles, all the house being lighted by oil.
Early on the morning of the 21st, we went down the very pleasant valley
along which runs the Negra. This stream we crossed by a bridge at the
very gates of Terni,[138] where in the public place, we remarked a
very ancient column still upright. I found no inscription thereon,
but at the side is an effigy of a lion in relief, below which is a
dedication to Neptune in ancient characters, and also Neptune himself
sculptured in marble with his customary train.[139] In this same place
is an inscription in a prominent position in honour of a certain A.
Pompeius A. F. The people of the town, which was known as _Interamnia_,
because of the river Negra which passes close on one side and of a
brook which flows on the other, erected a statue to this man in memory
of the services which he had wrought, but it is no longer to be seen. I
calculated the antiquity of the inscription aforesaid by the use made
of diphthongs in writing _periculeis_ and other similar words. The town
occupies a very pleasant site. At the bottom of the valley, by the
road we had traversed, the level ground is very fertile, and farther
on the sides of the hills are populous and well tilled, the abundance
of olive trees making a picture as fair as the eye could wish, while
here and there along these slopes arise tall mountains, which display
themselves well cultivated and productive of all manner of fruits up to
the very tops. For the last four-and-twenty hours I had been grievously
tormented with colic, and at this moment the pain was at its worst,
but I did not on this account fail to enjoy the beauty of the country
around me.
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