The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3) — John Shaqi
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
History
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
M. de Caselis here parted company with us and tarried in Padua on a
pension of seven crowns a month for good food and lodging. He might
have taken his valet for five crowns; the pensions here are of the
highest class and frequented by the best of company, for instance the
Sieur de Millan, son of M. de Salignac. As a rule the guests have no
servants of their own, but are served by the valet of the house, or by
women. Each guest has an excellent room, and finds his own fuel and
light; the catering, as we had reason to know, being very good. Living
in this manner is exceedingly cheap, and this in my opinion is the
reason why so many strangers who are no longer students resort hither.
It is not the custom to ride through the streets or to be attended by
servants. In Germany we noted that all men down to the hand workers
carried swords, a practice not adopted in this country. After dinner
on Sunday, November 12, we went to see the baths to the right of the
city, going to Abano[19] direct. This is a small village at the very
foot of the mountains. Three or four hundred paces beyond it is a
rocky plateau, somewhat higher than the ground adjacent, and on this
elevation, which is of considerable extent, several springs of hot
water issue from the rocks, which water cannot be used at the source
for the bath--and much less for drinking--on account of its great
heat. Wherever it runs it leaves a grey trace like burnt cinder and a
heavy deposit which resembles petrified sponge, its taste being salt
and sulphurous. Indeed the whole region is perfumed thereby, for the
brooks, which run in all directions over the level ground, convey to a
great distance the heat and the smell aforesaid.
Two or three small houses, ill enough furnished, serve the needs of
the patients, the water being brought to the baths in the houses by
channels from the springs. Exhalations rise not only from the water
itself, but also from every crack and crevice of the rocks, which give
out heat everywhere, so that the people there have dug out certain
places in which a man may lie down and get the heat of the exhalations
and fall into a sweat. M. de Montaigne took a little of the water in
his mouth, after it had lost its excessive heat by standing awhile, and
found it tasted more of salt than of anything else.
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