The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
General
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
On leaving Prato we again went off our road and journeyed some four
miles to visit Poggio,[34] a house belonging to the duke, situated on
the Ombrone, of which they make great boast. It is built on the plan
of Pratolino, and what is remarkable about it is that the builders
were able to find room for a hundred fair chambers in so small a
space. Amongst other things I saw there many sets of very beautiful
bed furniture, albeit of no great value, seeing that they were of that
light variegated stuff made entirely of fine wool, interwoven with a
fourfold thread of taffetas of the same shade. We saw there also the
laboratory of the duke, and his work-room fitted with a lathe and other
instruments, this prince being a great mechanician. Thence we went
fourteen miles by a direct road running through an exceedingly fertile
country, the road being fenced in by a hedge formed by the vines
attached to the trees, a very beautiful sight, and arrived at Pistoia
in time for supper.
This is a large town on the Ombrone, with broad streets, paved,
like those of Florence, Prato, Lucca, and other places, with large,
wide slabs of stone. I forgot to say that, from the apartments at
Poggio, Florence, Prato, and Pistoia may be seen when sitting at
table. While we were there the duke was at Pratolino. At Pistoia we
saw very few people about the streets; but the churches are fine, as
well as many of the houses. I inquired concerning the sale of the
straw hats, which they make at fifteen soldi apiece, and which, in
my opinion, would be well worth as many francs in France. In ancient
times Catiline was overthrown in a battle close to the town.[35] In
one of the rooms at Poggio is some tapestry representing hunting of
all sorts, and I remarked that one of these was an ostrich chase, the
birds being followed by men on horseback and pierced with javelins.
The Latins called Pistoia _Pistorium_,[36] and it now belongs to the
Duke of Florence. Legend records that the ancient feuds of the houses
of Cancellieri[37] and Panciatici reduced its population greatly, so
that now it does not contain more than eight thousand people, while
Lucca, which is no bigger as a city, numbers twenty-five thousand or
more. Messer Taddeo Rospigliosi, who had received from Rome a letter
written in my favour by Giovanni Franchini, invited me and all those
of my company to dine at his house on the morrow. His palace was
full of ornament, but the service at table was somewhat rough, and
the supply of meat and of attendants was scanty. Additional wine was
served after dinner as in Germany. We went to the principal church, and
remarked that the elevation of the Host was accompanied by the sound of
trumpets, while amongst the boys in the choir were several priests who
played upon sackbuts. This poor city pretends to make up for its lost
liberties by maintaining a vain semblance of its ancient state. There
are nine priors and a Gonfalonier, who are elected every two months,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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