The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
General
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
On Tuesday, May 9, 1581, I went early in the morning before sunrise to
drink at the hot spring itself, and took seven glasses one after the
other, the water weighing about three pounds and a half, as they reckon
it here. The water is lukewarm, like that at Aigues Caudes or Barbotan,
with less taste than any water I have ever drunk. All I could remark
was its warmth and a slight sweetness, and I found it very tardy in
taking effect; but some of the visitors told me I had taken too little,
seeing that the physicians often prescribe a whole _fiasco_, sixteen or
seventeen of our glasses or eight pounds’ weight. My opinion is that
the water, finding my stomach empty on account of my recent purge,
assimilated itself to nutriment. The same day I received a visit from
a Bolognese gentleman, a colonel commanding two hundred foot in the
pay of the State, stationed four miles distant. He made divers offers
to serve me, and stayed with me about two hours, having directed my
landlord and all others in the place to use all their efforts to make
me comfortable. This government makes a practice of employing strangers
as officers, and puts a colonel in command. One will have a larger,
another a smaller troop under his charge. The colonels are paid, but
the captains, who are people of the country, only get pay during war,
when they take command of their own companies as occasion may demand.
This colonel had for pay sixteen crowns a month, and had no other duty
than to be always in readiness.
People live more by rule at these baths than at our own, and abstain
rigorously, especially from drinks. At no other bath, except at
Banieres, have I ever been so well lodged, and Banieres equals it in
beauty of situation, but is the only bathing-place that does.
I am of opinion that this water is very mild and has little strength,
wherefore it is safe and free from danger for those unaccustomed to
such treatment, or for the delicate. It is taken for the strengthening
of the liver and for the removal of eruptions on the face; a fact of
which I made careful note as a service I would fain render to a most
estimable French lady. The water of Saint John’s spring is largely used
in making cosmetics, as it is impregnated with oil. I remarked that
much of it was sent away in casks, and still more of the water which
I was drinking. It is carried on mules’ and asses’ backs to be drunk
in Reggio, Modena, and Lombardy. Some take it in bed, the physicians
giving special directions to keep the stomach and the feet warm, and
to avoid all fatigue. People of the neighbourhood have it conveyed to
their houses three or four miles distant. As a proof that this water
is not strongly aperient it may be noted that the apothecaries here
keep a certain water brought from a spring near Pistoia, sharp on
the palate and very hot when drawn from the well, which they give to
patients before taking the native water, alleging that quicker and more
efficient result is thereby induced.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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