The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
General
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
where it drips, the ground is whitened as if ashes had been strewn
there. The water of our own springs has this same property, but only
slightly. This spring is a little less than a mile from my lodgings by
going round the foot of the hill, its site being much lower than that
of any other hot spring, and distant one or two pikes’ length from the
river.
The day previous I had taken a long walk of three miles or so after
dinner in the hot sun, and again after supper. The effect of this
water upon me was an increase of strength, and I began to digest it
half-an-hour after taking it; moreover, I made a good round of two
miles on the way back to my lodgings. Perhaps this abnormal exercise
may have made me feel young again. Every other morning I had gone
straight back to my room to avoid the chill of the morning air, my
house not being more than thirty paces from the spring. In my walks
over the slopes of these hills, I came upon many sources of hot water,
and the country-folk declare furthermore that in the winter certain
places give out steam, a proof of the existence of still more hot
springs. The samples of these which I tasted seemed, in comparison
with my particular spring, about equally hot and without either smell
or taste or vapour. I observed at another place in Corsena, some way
below the baths, a great number of douches much better arranged than
the others I have named, the pipes thereof being supplied by a number
of springs, eight or ten, so the people say. Over each pipe is written
the name of its peculiar spring: La Saporita, La Dolce, La Innamorata,
La Coronale, La Disperata, &c., and a description of the effects
thereof. I can say for certain that some pipes give out hotter water
than others.
The surrounding hills are almost all productive of corn and grapes,
whereas fifty years ago they were covered with thicket and chestnut
woods. A few bare mountains with snow on the summits may be seen, but
they are a long way off. The common people eat what they call _pane di
legna_, which is the expression they use in speaking of chestnut-bread,
this fruit being the great crop of the country, and the cake they make
therewith is something like French gingerbread. I never saw elsewhere
so many snakes and toads; indeed, through fear of the snakes, the
children do not dare to gather the strawberries, which grow most
abundantly on the hills and amongst the hedges.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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