The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
General
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
_To face p. 94_, vol. iii.
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XI
FLORENCE
On the Friday, I saw the public procession when the Grand Duke rode in
his coach.[63] Amongst the other sights was a gilded car made in form
of a theatre, in which were four little children, and one in the garb
of a friar, who represented Saint Francis, holding his hands as the
Saint is depicted, and bearing a crown over his cowl. This last was
either a friar or some one in friar’s dress with a false beard. Some
children were dressed as warriors, amongst whom was Saint George, and
when they entered the piazza they came upon a huge dragon which was
clumsily borne along by some men concealed. The dragon rushed forward,
belching fire from his mouth and roaring, whereupon the young Saint
George made at him with sword and lance and cut his throat.
I was most kindly received by one of the Gondi, a family living at
Lyons: this gentleman sent me some of the Trebisiano, the finest wine
of the country. Meantime it was so hot that even the people of the
country marvelled at the heat, and this morning at dawn I had an attack
of colic on the right side which lasted some three hours. I now tasted
the first musk melon of the season: in Florence they have plenty of
cucumbers and almonds from the beginning of June.
On the 23rd, the chariot races took place in a fine large piazza,
surrounded on all sides by fair houses, the length thereof being
greater than the width.[64] At either end was erected a squared obelisk
of wood, and between these was stretched a long rope to prevent any
one from crossing the square. In addition, several men were stationed
all along the piazza to keep the people off the rope aforesaid. All the
balconies were filled with ladies, and the Grand Duke, with the duchess
and the court, occupied one of the palaces. The people stood all along
the piazza and upon some platforms which had been put up, where also I
found a place. Five chariots, empty, entered for the race, the station
by the side of one of the obelisks being assigned by lot, some people
affirming that the coach on the outside had the best place from being
able to make the round more easily. A trumpet gave the signal to start,
and the coach which reached the starting-point beside the pyramid, at
the end of the third round, was to be declared the winner. The Grand
Duke’s coach held the lead up to the last round, but then the driver of
the Strozzi coach, who had always hung close on the leader, urged his
horses to make extraordinary efforts with loosened reins; and, having
collected all his forces, brought his coach in line with the Duke’s at
the end. I marked how the people began to clamour, as soon as they saw
Strozzi gaining on the leader, and how they applauded him to the utmost
though their ruler was there present. And afterwards, when the dispute
was referred to the arbitration of certain gentlemen, the Strozzi
partisans appealed to the verdict of the people assembled, who shouted
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