The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
General
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
On Wednesday, July 5th, I visited the cathedral, built on the site of
the palace of the Emperor Hadrian. Here are columns of various marbles,
infinite in number and differing in form and workmanship, and most
beautiful doors of metal. It is enriched by various trophies brought
from Greece and Egypt, and itself is constructed out of ancient ruins,
so that here may be seen inscriptions upside down, and there divided in
the middle.[73] In some places are to be seen indecipherable characters
said to be written by the Etruscans.[74] I saw the Campanile, which
is marvellous in appearance, being inclined seven cubits out of the
perpendicular. At Bologna and other places there are leaning towers.
Pillars and open colonnades are set round it from top to bottom. Also
the church of Saint John near thereto, which is very richly adorned
with painting and sculpture.[75] Amongst other rarities is a marble
pulpit set very thickly with statues, which are so beautiful that
Lorenzo, the same who slew Duke Alexander dei Medici, is said to have
carried off the heads of certain of them,[76] and presented them to the
queen. In shape this church resembles the Rotonda at Rome.[77]
The natural son of the duke aforesaid lives at Pisa.[78] He is an old
man, and I chanced to see him. He lives at his ease on the bounty of
the present duke, and takes no part in public affairs, being content
to amuse himself with the excellent hunting and fishing to be enjoyed
in the neighbourhood. In no other city of Italy is to be found such
vast store of holy relics and exquisite works, and stone and marble
work of such rarity, grandeur, and marvellous workmanship. I was
immensely pleased with the cemetery, which they call the Campo Santo.
It is of extraordinary size, and rectangular, three hundred paces long
and one hundred wide, and surrounded by a corridor forty paces wide,
covered with lead and paved with marble. The walls are covered with old
paintings, and amongst them is a portrait of the Florentine Gondi, by
whom the family of that name was founded.
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