The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
General
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
On this same day, twenty-one Turkish slaves escaped from the arsenal
near my house and fled the place, having taken possession of a bark,
with full equipment, which the Signor Alessandro di Piombini had left
there while he went fishing. Except the Arno itself, and the navigable
channel so admirably contrived, and the churches and ancient buildings
and others of particular merit, there is little in Pisa that is
distinguished or worth seeing. The place is like a desert, and in this
respect, and in the fashion of the buildings, and in its size, and in
the wideness of the streets, it strongly resembles Pistoia. Its chief
disadvantage is its bad water, which has everywhere a marshy smell.
These people are very poor, but at the same time very arrogant and
unfriendly, and discourteous towards strangers, and towards the French
especially since the death of their late bishop, Pietro Paulo Borbonio,
who claimed kinship with our royal house.[89] Certain of his relations
still reside here. This prelate was so liberal and so well disposed to
our nation that he made it a rule to entertain in his palace at once
any Frenchman who might arrive in Pisa. To the Pisans he has left an
honoured memory of his righteous life and bounty. He died only five or
six years ago.
On July 17th, I joined with twenty-five others, at a crown each, in a
raffle for some things belonging to Fargnocola, one of the aforenamed
players. We began by drawing lots as to who should play first, second,
and so on; and then made the rule that, as there were several lots of
things to play for, they should be divided into two equal parts. One of
these was to fall to the player who threw highest, the other to the
lowest throw. It chanced that I threw second highest.
On the 18th, at the church of S. Francesco, a grave tumult arose
between the priests of the cathedral and the friars. On the previous
day a Pisan gentleman was brought to be buried in the cathedral,
whereupon the priests got ready all their paraphernalia for the funeral
office, asserting their ancient right and privilege. But the friars on
their part declared that they and no others had the right to say mass
in their church. One of the priests attempted to get possession of the
table, having gone up to the high altar, but a friar forced him away,
whereupon the vicar, the head of the priests of this church, gave the
friar a buffet. Then arose a hand-to-hand fight, fists, bludgeons,
candlesticks, and tapers being used freely, and the upshot was that no
mass was said by either party. This outbreak of rage and riot caused a
great scandal. As soon as I heard the report thereof, I went to the
cathedral, where I received true report of what had happened.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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