The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
General
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
Here French is spoken, wherefore I quit the use of the foreign
language, which I can employ easily enough, albeit somewhat
incorrectly, not having had the opportunity of giving due diligence
thereto through being always in the company of Frenchmen. I crossed
Mont Senis partly on horseback and partly in a litter borne by four
men, having others ready to relieve them. They carry the litters on
their shoulders. The ascent takes two hours, and is stony and difficult
for horses which are not accustomed to it, but otherwise without
difficulty or danger, for as the road is constructed on the mass of the
mountain, there are no precipices and no danger except of stumbling.
Below may be seen a plain two leagues long, and on it divers cottages,
lakes, and springs, and the post-house. There are no trees, but plenty
of grass and meadows to give pasturage in mild weather. At this season
snow lay over all. The descent is about a league, cut out of the rock
in a direct line, and I had myself carried down it by the _marrons_,
to whom I gave two crowns amongst the eight of them. The charge for
the descent is only one _teston_. It was a pleasant bit of sport, but
not one needing great courage. We dined at Lanebourg,[130] two posts
onward, a Savoyard village at the foot of the mountains, and slept in
a small place two leagues farther on. Everywhere we found abundance of
trout and excellent wine, both new and old. We started and travelled
five leagues over a rough, mountainous road, and dined at S. Michel,
where there is a post-house. Five leagues more brought us, late in the
day and wet through, to La Chambre, a little town which gives the title
of Marquis to a certain family, and there we slept.
On Friday, November the 3rd, we dined at Aiguebelle, a well-built town,
four leagues, and slept at Montmelian, another four leagues farther
on. This is a town and fortress which stands on the top of a little
ridge rising out of a level plain between two lofty mountains. The
town stands at the base of the fort on the river Isère, which passes
by Grenoble, seven leagues distant. Here I began to appreciate the
excellence of the Italian oil, of which I was never conscious after
eating, but I found that the oil of these parts upset my stomach. Two
leagues on our road we halted to dine at Chamberi, the chief town of
Savoy, a fair busy little place situated at the foot of the mountains
at a spot where they recede and leave a fine level stretch of country.
Passing on we crossed the Mont du Chat, which is high, steep, and
rocky, but in no way dangerous or difficult, and in descending came
upon a large lake on which stands a castle called Bordeau, where they
make swords which enjoy a great reputation. After a journey of four
leagues we rested for the night at a little town called Hyene.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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