The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
General
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
On the Sunday morning we came to a plain which, as well as the slopes
adjacent, seemed fertile enough, and then passed through Sant’ Angelo,
a pretty little town belonging to the Duke of Urbino, and lying on the
banks of the Metaurus, the approaches thereto being very handsome.
Because it was the eve of May-day they served us some of the little
frogs that were wont to be eaten at Mid-Lent.[24] Continuing our course
along the plain we passed through another village, called Marcatello,
and having travelled ten miles along a road which, after quitting
Marcatello, began to go uphill, we arrived for dinner at Borgo a Pasci,
a small village with a wretched inn at a corner of the mountain. We
took only a sup. Then we followed at first a wild and stony track, and
had to mount for two miles to the top of the pass, after which came
a descent of four miles, the road being stony and wearisome, but not
frightful or dangerous, seeing that there were no precipices so abrupt
that the eye could not find some point whereon to rest. We had followed
the Metaurus to its first home, its source being in these mountains,
and had seen it lose itself in the sea at Sinigaglia. As we descended
from this height there came in sight a broad and lovely plain, through
which ran the Tiber, here some eight miles from its source, and other
mountains beyond; a view not unlike that which presents itself in the
Limaigne of Auvergne to those who may come down from the Puy de Domme
to Clermont. At the top of the pass we emerged from the dominions
of the Duke of Urbino into those of the Duke of Florence, those of
the Pope lying on the left hand. We arrived for supper at Borgo San
Sepolcro, thirteen miles from our last halt.
This little town belongs to the Duke of Florence, and contains nought
worth notice. We left it on the first of May, and a mile from the town
we passed by a stone bridge over the Tiber, which is here a clear and
beautiful stream, a proof that the dirty tawny hue which it bears at
Rome--Flavum Tiberini--is caused by the admixture of some other stream.
We went for four miles over this plain and came upon a little town on
the top of the first hill we ascended. Here, as elsewhere along the
road, divers young girls came to meet us, and took hold of our horses’
bridles, singing and begging a gift for the feast of the day. From this
hill we descended into a deep stony valley which we followed for some
time, riding beside the bed of a torrent, and then we had to mount
another barren, stony hill, from the top of which we caught sight of
a wide plain. In traversing this we crossed the Chiasso and the Arno
by stone bridges, the bridge over the last-named stream being very
fine and large; and, having ridden eighteen miles, we put up for the
night at Ponte Boriano, where there was but one small house in which we
were very badly lodged, as on the three previous nights, and indeed at
well-nigh every halting-place on this route.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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