[95] “Messieurs de Bordeaux m’esleurent Maire de leur ville, estant esloigné de France, et encore plus esloigné d’un tel pensement. Je m’en excusay. Mais on m’apprint que j’avois tort, le commandement du Roy s’y interposant aussi” (_Essais_, iii. 10). Sainte Beuve (_Nouveaux Lundis_, vol. vi.) has an article, _Montaigne maire de Bordeaux_. [96] This chapel, the masterpiece of Matteo Civitali, was erected in 1484. The Volto Santo di Lucca is an ancient carved crucifix of cedar which, according to legend, was brought to the city in 782. [97] S. Frediano. [98] A bath in Gascony. Montaigne alludes to it in vol. ii., p. 24. [99] Probably the fruit of the zizzolo (_Ziziphus vulgaris_). [100] The Bagni di S. Paolo. [101] A house built by Nicolas V. out of the ruins of an ancient bath, the Bagno della Crociata. [102] This is the spring of Bulicame to which Dante alludes, _Inferno_, xiv.:-- “Quale del Bulicame esce il ruscello, Che parton poi tra lor le peccatrici, Tal per l’arena giù sen giva quello.” Pits for the steeping of hemp and flax still exist. A document has been found in the communal archives which shows that, as late as 1469, a portion of the spring went to the Bagni delle Meretrici. [103] Madonna della Quercia, between Orte and Viterbo. It is one of the finest Renaissance churches in Italy. It was built from Bramante’s design, and contains some beautiful Della Robbia work. [104] Paul III. [105] Now the Villa Lante. [106] The famous palace built by Vignola for Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, which was begun in 1547 and finished in 1559. [107] There is a full description of Caprarola and all the works therein in Vasari, vol. vii. p. 107 (ed. 1881). [108] In the _Essais_, i. 48, he alludes to a similar performance: “J’ay veu un homme donner carrière à deux pieds sur sa selle, demonter sa selle, et au retour la relever, r’accommoder, et s’y r’asseoir, fuyant tousiours à bride avallée. Ayant passé par dessus un bonnet, y tirer par derrière de bons coups de son arc: Amasser ce qu’il vouloit, se jettant d’un pied à terre, tenant l’autre en l’estrier et autres pareilles singeries de quoi il vivoit.” [109] Fulvio Orsini, made a cardinal in 1565. He had been entrusted by Gregory XIII. with a special mission to France. He died at Naples aged fifty-one. [110] It appears that Montaigne only stayed a week in Rome this visit. [111] It was during this sojourn probably that Mattecoulon was engaged in the duel referred to in _Essais_, ii. 27. [112] Ponte a Elsa (?). [113] These works were begun in 1577 under the direction of a Fleming named Raet, but were subsequently abandoned. [114] Dante, _Par._, xvi., alludes to its overthrow. [115] Sarzana. [116] This would be the Empress Maria, widow of Maximilian II. and sister of Philip II., who was returning to Spain to enter a convent. Don Giovanni dei Medici was the son of Cosimo I. by Eleanora degli Albizzi.