Africa, West -- Description and travel; Missions -- Africa
“O yes,” says the Old Coaster. “Let me see: there’s dysentery,—poor
C died of that last week; and there’s enlarged spleen, abscesses,
pneumonia, consumption (one falls into consumption here very quickly, and
often when he least expects it), kraw-kraw and smallpox (smallpox has
just broken out at Fernando Po: that’s our next port), not to speak of
seven or eight varieties of itch, which some men have all the time; but
itch doesn’t kill. By the way, I suppose you know that in this climate it
is necessary that bodies be buried a few hours after death.”
In the speech of the coast there is no such thing as reticence, and soon
enough we all learn to speak with brutal bluntness. The only comfort
held out to the new comer is the hope that he will receive, as a sort of
obituary, the kindly designation, “Poor Chap.”
I have never argued for the salubrity of the African climate; nor am I
disposed to protest the general opinion that it is “the worst climate
in the world.” The white man never becomes acclimatized, and never will
until he develops another kind of blood. One lives face to face with
the constant and proximate possibility of death as long as he is on the
coast. It is an unnatural consciousness, which, when prolonged through
years, tends to become fixed and permanent even when one has removed from
the circumstances that were its occasion. And yet, the conversation of
the Old Coaster is liable to make an exaggerated impression. In the first
place, the impression is natural that the climate being so unhealthful
must also be uncomfortable. But, in reality, while several months of
the year are extremely uncomfortable, the greater part of the year
is tolerably comfortable and there are several months of exceedingly
pleasant weather. Neither is the heat so great as is generally supposed.
With the greatest effort on my part, I never succeeded in disabusing my
friends of the notion that I was slowly roasting to death in Africa.
With every hot spell in America, when the thermometer was standing at
100°, their thoughts turned towards me in profound sympathy. While
I have at times suffered with the heat and there have been times on
the river, between high banks, cut off from the breeze, when I nearly
fainted, and one occasion upon which I was quite overcome, yet as a rule
I lived comfortably by day; and the nights are always cool. The maximum
temperature on the coast is from 86° to 88°, Fahrenheit, and even such a
temperature is rare. One ought to add, however, that owing to the extreme
humidity this temperature in Africa is incomparably hotter than the same
temperature in America. It is the sultriness of the hottest weather that
makes it insufferable. West Africa is heated by steam and without the
medium of radiators. The uniformity of the climate is pleasurable, and is
very strange to us of northern latitudes. One may reckon upon the weather
to a certainty. Within the limits of a given season there is scarcely any
variation from day to day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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