Africa, West -- Description and travel; Missions -- Africa
One can procure an outfit more conveniently and at less cost in Liverpool
than in New York. A week at Liverpool is sufficient for this purpose.
The outfit will depend somewhat upon whether one expects to live on the
coast or in the bush where he will be cut off from the facilities of
transportation by water. All transportation to the interior is by native
porters, who carry sixty or seventy pounds on their backs, in loads as
compact as possible. This excludes most furniture; and such furniture
as can be transported is usually “knocked down.” An ordinary outfit
will include several helmets of cork or pith, several white umbrellas
lined with green, a dozen white drill suits, denim trousers, canvas
shoes, leather shoes, rubber boots, cheese-cloth for mosquito-bars,
rubber blankets, pneumatic pillows, hot-water bags, a supply of
medicines (unless these are already on the field) especially quinine
and castor-oil, a six-mouths’ supply of food—canned meats, vegetables
and fruits—besides bedding and kitchenware, tableware, napery, etc.,
according to need, and guns and ammunition.
There is a romantic interest about this last week spent in the purchase
of strange articles for an untried life, and in taking leave of
civilization,—of such things as cities, society, music, fresh beef and
fine clothes. The last evening in Liverpool I went to hear _Tannhauser_.
Music had always been my pastime, and it was not an easy sacrifice to
make. I therefore looked forward to that evening with peculiar interest,
knowing that not again until my return, however long I might remain in
Africa, would I hear any music worthy of the name. But _Tannhauser_
proved to be not a sweet parting from civilization but an awful
experience, by reason of some one in my neighbourhood beating the time
with his foot, as they so often do in England. I had one of the best
seats in the house, but I exchanged it for another, only to find myself
in a worse neighbourhood; for, in addition to a man on each side of me
beating the time, a woman immediately behind “hummed the tune.” At the
close of the performance I was in a condition of “mortal mind” that would
have scandalized those who are disposed to canonize missionaries. But the
sorrow of parting was thus mitigated as I reflected that civilization has
its pains and savagery some compensations.
I went home and wrote the following to a friend: “Some one alluding to
Macaulay’s knowledge of history and his unerring accuracy once said that
infinite damnation to Macaulay would consist in being surrounded by
fiends engaged in misquoting history while he was rendered speechless and
unable to correct them; and I am thinking that my _inferno_ would consist
in being compelled to listen to some such exquisite melody as _O Thou
Sublime Sweet Evening Star_, surrounded the while by fiends keeping time
with their feet, and Beelzebub humming the tune.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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