The Kentish CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Kentish Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Kent (England) -- Description and travel
The visitor will not have been long in Margate before his attention
is drawn to men distributing bills inviting all and sundry to “Go and
see the Grotto!” Among the attractions of this place, set forth on
these leaflets, is “two thousand square feet of shellwork”--a kind of
decoration sufficient to make the artistic shudder. The “Grotto,” which
is really an excavation in the chalk, is situated in Bellevue Place
along “The Dane,” a thoroughfare about half a mile from the front. It
consists of a passage some 60 ft. in length, ending in a chamber about
12 ft. square. Both passage and chamber are lined with common shells
set in cement and displayed in geometrical and floral devices. A great
deal of nonsensical legend has accumulated about this place, which is
said to be a work of immemorial antiquity. That accepted archæologist,
Miss Marie Corelli, in her book “Cameos,” declares it to be “one
of the World’s Wonders,” and “a curious and beautiful subterranean
temple”; and believes it to be a work of the Vikings; a catacomb where
they buried their dead. Unfortunately for this view, we have only
to refer to Charles Knight’s book, “The Land we Live In,” published
about 1850, to read that “the shellwork was done by an ingenious
artisan of Margate who some years ago went to America.” The chamber
was originally, in fact, the basement-room of the little house above,
and the plaster ceiling of it remains. Thus do the Vikings vanish and
feminine archæologists become discredited!
To witness Margate in the spring preparing to awake from her winter
sleep and to make ready for early visitors is alike amusing and
pathetic. The long, empty vista of seaside promenade has as yet no
promenaders, but a scattered army of painters and gardeners is busy
upon seats, shelters, railings, and flower-beds. Everything is being
swept and garnished; and so long and so thoroughly has Margate been
looked after by a Town Council, that the parlour-maidenly neatness has
spread even to the sands, and you may see Corporation men walking by
the sad sea-waves picking up and neatly disposing of the seaweed and
other jetsam which the rude and sportive winds have left in unseemly
fashion on the ocean’s melancholy marge. Even those ridiculous chalk
cliffs are not allowed to present any jagged, picturesque outlines.
They are pretty freely cased with brick; but, it must in justice be
allowed that they have not been so nearly converted into brick walls as
have been the cliffs at Ramsgate. And in another matter, too, Margate
has not gone to extremes. Dogs (unless things have latterly been
pressed to extremity) may still bark on Margate sands. They may not do
so at Hastings, on penalty of the owner being fined by the local Sir
Oracles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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