"It was on March twenty-ninth that, emerging from the thick forest,
he saw before him the little Western metropolis of the pioneers, the
city of the forefathers of many of us here today--Lexington. I wish I
could stop to describe to you the picture as he painted it: the town
stretching along its low valley; a stream running through the valley
and turning several mills--water mills in Lexington a hundred years
ago! In the market-place which you now call Cheapside he saw the
pillory and the stocks and he noted that the stocks were so arranged as
to be serviceable for gallows: our Kentucky forefathers arranged that
they should be conveniently hanged, if they deserved it, as a public
spectacle of warning.
"On a country court day he saw a thousand horses hitched around the
courthouse square and in churchyards and in graveyards. He states that
even then Kentucky horses were the most remarkable in the world.
"He makes no mention of one thing he must have seen, but was perhaps
glad to forget--the weavers and the busy looms; for in those days
Kentuckians were busy making good linen and good homespun, as in
Paisley.
"He slept while in Lexington--this great unknown man--in a garret
called Salter White's, wherever that was: and he shivered with cold,
for you know we can have chill nights in April. He says that he had
no firewood, it being scarce, the universal forest of firewood being
half a mile away: this was like going hungry in a loft over a full
baker-shop.
"And I must not omit one note of his on the Kentuckians themselves,
which flashes a vivid historic light on their character. By this time
he rightly considered that he had had adventures worth relating; but
he declares that if he attempted to relate them to any Kentuckian, the
Kentuckian at once interrupted him and insisted upon relating his own
adventures as better worth while. Western civilization was of itself
the one absorbing adventure to every man who had had his share in it.
"Here I must pause to intimate that Wilson all his life carried with
him one bird--one vigourous and vociferous bird--a crow to pick. He
picked it savagely with Louisville. But he had begun to pick it with
Scotland. He had picked it with Great Britain and with New Jersey
and Virginia. In New England the feathers of the crow fairly flew. In
truth, civilization never quite satisfied him; wild nature alone he
found no fault with--there only was he happy and at home. He now picked
his crow with Lexington. Afterward an indignant Kentuckian, quite in
the good Kentucky way, attacked him and left the crow featherless--as
regards Lexington.
"On the fourteenth day of April he departed from Lexington, moving
southward through the forest to New Orleans. Scarcely yet had the woods
begun to turn green. He notes merely the white blossoms of the redroot
peeping through the withered leaves, and the buds of the buckeye. With
those sharp eyes of his he observed that wherever a hackberry tree had
fallen, cattle had eaten the bark.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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