The Kilima-Njaro expedition : $b a record of scientific exploration in eastern equatorial Africa, and a general description of the natural history, languages, and commerce of the Kilima-njaro districtJohnston, Harry
History
The Kilima-Njaro expedition : $b a record of scientific exploration in eastern equatorial Africa, and a general description of the natural history, languages, and commerce of the Kilima-njaro district
Johnston, Harry
Johnston, Harry, 1858-1927 -- Travel -- Tanzania; Kilimanjaro, Mount (Tanzania) -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Tanzania -- Kilimanjaro, Mount; Scientific expeditions -- Tanzania -- Kilimanjaro, Mount; Tanzania -- Description and travel
If you look from the verandah of the Consulate towards the town of
Zanzibar you have a scene of much picturesqueness and colour, and one
which, focussed and framed by the lattice-work that is hung with
creeping plants, becomes a real picture. You see the ships in the
harbour, the canoes and rowing-boats skimming in and out among the large
vessels, then lines of daus all drawn up along the shore of white sand,
with busy crowds of men working round and about them, some unloading,
some repairing, some looking idly on, others stripping for a bathe and
playing at a peculiar game in the water, round the hulls of the
half-floated daus, which consists in turning a somersault and bringing
your legs down with a smack on your companions’ backs. Indeed, the
absence of all social restraint on the shore at Zanzibar might
occasionally ruffle the sensibilities of those of our weaker sex who are
supposed to be shocked at seeing life under somewhat primitive
conditions. There are no “bathing regulations” at Zanzibar, and the
beach immediately below the Consular windows is the favourite resort of
“natives,” who in complete nudity gaily chase each other along the
silver strand, or plunge into the tiny billows and the black ooze of the
nether shore. Indeed, the number of Indians who seem to choose the
purlieus of the British Consulate for performing their ablutions
(doubtless because they look upon it as a right of British subjects to
bathe under their Consul’s eye) render it necessary sometimes to
despatch a Sikari for the purpose of driving the nude Hindoos to remoter
shores, for should the Consul be entertaining the lady residents of
Zanzibar at afternoon tea on the balcony, it is somewhat embarrassing
for their gaze continually to encounter, not the black glistening forms
of the burly negroes on whom nakedness sits with decency, but the yellow
and obese Hindoos, who, with the figures and demeanour of middle-aged
aldermen, are paddling up to their ankles with the innocence and
unconcern of early childhood.
[Illustration:
Fig. 10.—A View over the Housetops.
]
The buildings of Zanzibar along the shore-line are gifted with an
adventitious beauty which is derived from contrasts of colour, and
light, and shade. The Sultan’s clock-tower, which rises like a minaret
above the flat-roofed houses, is in reality a structure of vulgar,
tasteless design, but seen from a distance with its ugliness softened
down, it lends considerable point to the harbour view of Zanzibar. The
other buildings are little remarkable for elegance of exterior shape,
but, being all whitewashed or of light-coloured stone, they form under
the sun’s rays a snowy, irregular mass, the outline of which tells out
effectively against a deep blue or a storm-grey sky, and is here and
there relieved by the green cocopalms or the flags of the Sultan’s
palace and the different Consulates.
[Illustration:
ZANZIBAR HARBOUR FROM THE CONSULATE.
To face page 29.
]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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