The Kilima-Njaro expedition : $b a record of scientific exploration in eastern equatorial Africa, and a general description of the natural history, languages, and commerce of the Kilima-njaro district — John Shaqi
The Kilima-Njaro expedition : $b a record of scientific exploration in eastern equatorial Africa, and a general description of the natural history, languages, and commerce of the Kilima-njaro districtJohnston, Harry
History
The Kilima-Njaro expedition : $b a record of scientific exploration in eastern equatorial Africa, and a general description of the natural history, languages, and commerce of the Kilima-njaro district
Johnston, Harry
Johnston, Harry, 1858-1927 -- Travel -- Tanzania; Kilimanjaro, Mount (Tanzania) -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Tanzania -- Kilimanjaro, Mount; Scientific expeditions -- Tanzania -- Kilimanjaro, Mount; Tanzania -- Description and travel
Drawn up before his tawdry palace (a ricketty building of many storeys,
of no style whatever, and of execrable taste) is a smart-looking
regiment of the New Zanzibar army, the men in white uniform, with red
and yellow caps, and the officers in white trousers and magnificently
embroidered tunics. At their head stands their organizer and
Commander-in-Chief, General Matthews, who gives the order to present
arms as the Consular party draws near. Then the Goanese band strikes up
“God save the Queen,” and we risk a sunstroke by walking through the
serried ranks of soldiers with our helmets raised above our heads. In
the entry to the palace more guards, Persian and Baluch, are assembled,
and there are crowds of Arabs in gala costumes. Preceded by a kind of
Master of the Ceremonies, we pass along corridors and apartments
furnished in the Neo-Oriental (bastard French) style, and then ascend a
strangely mean and poky staircase covered with scraps of faded
kamptulicon. As we emerge on a small landing, coming up, as it were,
from a stage trap, a tall, portly Arab leans over the stair-rail, and
extends to each in turn a firm, plump hand. It is Sayyid Barghash come
to greet his visitors half way; and though his cordial way of taking you
by the hand and hoisting you up is merely a piece of formal courtesy,
still it is of material assistance to you in emerging from the trap-like
staircase. Preceded by the Sayyid, we are ushered into a long, narrow
reception-room of Arab shape but later French decoration. Except for the
fine Persian carpet which goes the whole length of the apartment, there
is little to note that is pleasing to a critical eye. The furniture is
red velvet and gilt wood. Round the walls are ranged medley assemblages
of kitchen clocks, ormolu timepieces, aneroid barometers, thermometers,
anemometers, telescopes, opera-glasses, musical-boxes, swords, spears,
guns, pistols, toys of ingenious kinds, photographic albums, photographs
glazed and framed and faded, and what not else. The upper end of the
room, where the “Sultan” ordinarily sits, has a large mirror in the
centre, and on either side of the mirror is a full-length oil painting
of Sayyid Barghash. These two paintings are identical in every detail.
They were manufactured in Paris. The Sayyid had a photograph taken of
himself during his visit to London. It was in a sitting posture. He sent
it to Paris with the order that it was to be enlarged standing, and then
converted into two oil paintings. The Parisian artist, in no way at a
loss, cut off the head of the sitting Sultan and stuck it on to the
decapitated portrait of some Algerian Arab photographed erect. The
combination was enlarged, and in due time gave rise to the two oil
paintings in the palace at Zanzibar.
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