The Kilima-Njaro expedition : $b a record of scientific exploration in eastern equatorial Africa, and a general description of the natural history, languages, and commerce of the Kilima-njaro districtJohnston, Harry
History
The Kilima-Njaro expedition : $b a record of scientific exploration in eastern equatorial Africa, and a general description of the natural history, languages, and commerce of the Kilima-njaro district
Johnston, Harry
Johnston, Harry, 1858-1927 -- Travel -- Tanzania; Kilimanjaro, Mount (Tanzania) -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Tanzania -- Kilimanjaro, Mount; Scientific expeditions -- Tanzania -- Kilimanjaro, Mount; Tanzania -- Description and travel
At length all my arrangements were finished. The men had received and
spent their advanced wages, and had sobered down after the drunken spree
by which they nearly always inaugurate a journey into the interior. I
myself was ready and anxious to be off. I longed for the bracing air of
the inland plateaux to dispel the weakening fever from which I suffered,
and gladly stepped into Captain Gissing’s pretty skiff, in which the
first stage of the journey might be made, for several tidal creeks
extend inland from Mombasa for a distance of nearly twenty miles. My men
journeyed by land, and we all met again in the vicinity of the mission
station of Rabai. After one night spent with Mr. and Mrs. Wakefield at
Jomvu, and a pleasant rest with the Shaws at Kisolutini, I was at length
launched alone into the wilderness, rather relieved than otherwise at my
unaccustomed solitude. My party consisted of one hundred and twenty men.
The first day’s tramp into the interior was very trying. Owing to the
scarcity of water, I had resolved to make a long march to a place called
Gora, at a distance of about thirty miles from my starting point. I gave
my caravan a little start ahead of me, and followed leisurely in a
hammock, feeling at first too weak from fever to be able to go on foot.
In fact, what with anterior weakness and a blazing sun, I felt in such a
stupid condition that I hoped, during the first day of my travels, to be
allowed to journey peacefully without undue exercise of energy. But it
was not to be, and perhaps fortunately so, since there is nothing that
dispels the languidness of fever so speedily as the necessity for
vigorous action. After some hours’ easy jog-trot in my net-hammock, I
came up with the bulk of my caravan, and found all the men reclining in
the pleasant shade of a leafy wood. The Zanzibaris rose somewhat
apologetically, and with a show of respect, but the men of Rabai and
Mombasa merely looked at me with stolid unconcern, and several yawned
unrestrainedly in my face when I questioned them as to the cause of this
prolonged halt. The head-man of these Christian—save the mark!—porters
then informed me that his men considered the walk to Gora too long to be
undertaken in a day, and had chosen this pleasant spot to repose in
during the sultry hours. I called on the laggards to take up their
burdens and go on; I maintained that I alone had the power to order a
halt; that the morning was still fresh, and that if we rested now we
should never reach the water-place by nightfall—in vain, I was only met
with sullen looks and murmurs of dissent.
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