The Kilima-Njaro expedition : $b a record of scientific exploration in eastern equatorial Africa, and a general description of the natural history, languages, and commerce of the Kilima-njaro districtJohnston, Harry
History
The Kilima-Njaro expedition : $b a record of scientific exploration in eastern equatorial Africa, and a general description of the natural history, languages, and commerce of the Kilima-njaro district
Johnston, Harry
Johnston, Harry, 1858-1927 -- Travel -- Tanzania; Kilimanjaro, Mount (Tanzania) -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Tanzania -- Kilimanjaro, Mount; Scientific expeditions -- Tanzania -- Kilimanjaro, Mount; Tanzania -- Description and travel
The name of our last camping-place, “Ziwani,” had a pleasant sound to
the thirsty traveller, for translated into English it means “By the
pool,” and would consequently suggest the close proximity of water. But,
except under favourable conditions, this is not the case at the spot in
question, and, as it happened, Taru, a day’s journey from Ziwani, was
the last place where we had been able to replenish our gourds and
bottles. In consequence of such dearth of water it was necessary that
the distance between Ziwani and Maungu (the next watering-place) should
be covered in a day, and as this was thirty-two miles it meant a forced
march of thirteen hours. My men had willingly allowed me to ignore the
disagreeable necessity, fearing that I might, as I certainly should have
done, force them to break the distance between Ziwani and Maungu by a
night march—a thing they much detested, even when performed by the light
of a full moon, having, like most Africans, a superstitious fear of
night. But being themselves conscious of the long stretch of waterless
country they had to traverse before reaching the mountains of Maungu,
they, for once, were eager and ready to start before their leader’s
call, and consequently when I awoke from that delicious dreamless sleep
caused by the timely draught of champagne, I found myself almost alone,
while a strange and unwonted silence pervaded the camp. The head-man of
the caravan was squatted outside the tent patiently awaiting my
awakening. The Indian servant and the senior cook were busily preparing
breakfast, while just sufficient men remained behind to carry my tent,
bed, and cooking apparatus.
Learning the cause of my porters’ disappearance, and far from
disapproving such unaccustomed and unprompted activity, I hastily
dressed, swallowed my breakfast, and also prepared myself for the long
journey that lay before us. The bright slanting beams of an hour-old sun
lit up the landscape so cheerfully that the purpose of covering
thirty-two miles by nightfall seemed both feasible and easy of
accomplishment. The air was fresh and buoyant, and either my potion of
the night before or the change from the hothouse atmosphere of the coast
to a more bracing climate had brought back strength to my limbs and
courage to my heart, for I stepped out along the red path at three miles
an hour and enjoyed the exercise. This rate of progress soon brought me
up to the rearguard of those who had started with the earliest dawn, but
whose energy had waned after two or three hours’ hard tramp. Already,
with stupid resignation, many were stretching themselves by the wayside,
having first, to satisfy a moderate thirst, consumed in several gulps
the remainder of the drinking-water which was to carry them through the
day; and, this finished, they were prepared to lie down in utter
hopelessness, feeling themselves unequal to the task of walking
twenty-five miles to the next water-supply or twenty-five miles back to
the last.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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