In bringing this volume to its completion, I desire to acknowledge my indebtedness to Sir George Grey, K.C.B., for his letter of introduction to King Tawhiao; to Mr. C.O. Davis, for the willing way he at all times placed his scholarly knowledge of the Maori language at my disposal; to Mr. T.F. Cheeseman, F.L.S., for the classification of the _flora_ of Tongariro and Ruapehu; to Mr. James McKerrow, Surveyor-General, for maps and charts of the colony; to Mr. Percy Smith, Assistant-Surveyor-General, for a correction of altitudes; to Mr. Robert Graham, of Ohinemutu, for voluntarily placing his best horses at my disposal; to J.A. Turner, for an unceasing earnestness of purpose in fulfilling his duties as interpreter; and to the Whitaker Ministry, for their recognition of the usefulness of my work. CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. PAGE Geographical description of the King Country--Its political state--Efforts made to open it--Condition of the natives--Origin of the journey--Letter of introduction to the king 1 THE FRONTIER OF THE KING COUNTRY. CHAPTER I. THE KING'S CAMP. Alexandra--Crossing the frontier--Whatiwhatihoe--The camp--King Tawhiao--The chiefs--"_Taihoa_" 17 CHAPTER II. THE KORERO. The Kingites--Half-castes--An albino--The king's speech--Maori oratory--The feast 27 CHAPTER III. ASCENT OF PIRONGIA. Mount Pirongia--Geological features--The ascent--A fair prospect 36 THE LAKE COUNTRY. CHAPTER IV. AUCKLAND TO OHINEMUTU. The flank movement--Auckland Harbour--Tauranga--Whakari--The _tuatara_--_En route_--The Gate Pa--All that remains--Oropi--A grand forest--Mangorewa Gorge--Mangorewa River--A region of eternal fire 46 CHAPTER V. HOT-SPRING LIFE. Ohinemutu and Lake Rotorua--Te Ruapeka--The old _pa_--Native baths--Delightful bathing--A curious graveyard--Pigs--Area of thermal action--Character of the springs--Chemical constituents--Noted springs--Whakarewarewa--Te Koutu--Kahotawa--"_Tenakoe, pakeha_"--Hot and cold 56 CHAPTER VI. TRADITION, IDOLATRY, AND ROMANCE. Origin of the Maoris--Te Kupe--First canoes--The _runanga_ house--Maori carving--Renowned ancestors--Tama te Kapua--Stratagem of the stilts--Legend of the whale--The Arawa canoe--Noted braves--Mokia--A curious relic--Gods of the Arawas--Mokia by night--Hinemoa--A love song 68 CHAPTER VII. EN ROUTE TO THE TERRACES. Over the mountains--Rauporoa Forest--The _hotete_--Tikitapu--Rotokakahi --Te Wairoa--The natives--Waituwhera Gorge--The boat--A distinguished traveller--Sophia--Lake Tarawera--Mount Tarawera--Te Ariki--Te Kaiwaka 81 CHAPTER VIII.