Approaching the mountain--A field for research--Physical and geological features--Plan of attack--Curious icicles--A lava barrier--Natives in the distance--Horse camp--Scoria hills and lava ridges--The start for the snow-line--Up the great spur--Head of the spur--Our camp--A wind-storm--Ruapehu by night--A picture of the past--Waiting for sunrise--Sunrise 199 CHAPTER XVIII. RUAPEHU. (_Second Day._) ASCENT OF THE GREAT PEAK. The start--A lava bluff--Last signs of vegetation--Wall of conglomerate rock--The Giant Rocks--Ancient crater--Difficult climbing--A frightful precipice--The ice crown--Cutting our way over the ice--The summit--Peaks and crater--A grand _coup d'oeil_--The surrounding country--Taking landmarks--Point Victoria 217 CHAPTER XIX. THE KAIMANAWA MOUNTAINS. Further plans--Across the plains--_In memoriam_--The Onetapu Desert--Mamanui camp--Grilled _weka_--A heavy frost--The Kaimanawas--Geological formation--A probable _El Dorado_--Reputed existence of gold 229 CHAPTER XX. SECOND ASCENT OF RUAPEHU. SOURCES OF THE WHANGAEHU AND WAIKATO RIVERS. Curious parterres--Supposed source of Whangaehu---A gigantic lava bed--A steep bluff--The Horseshoe Fall--The Bridal Veil Fall--The Twin Falls--A dreary region--Ice caves--Source of the Waikato--The descent--Our camp on the desert 237 CHAPTER XXI. KARIOI. Our commissariat gives out--The Murimotu Plains--The settlement--The homestead--The welcome--Society at Karioi--The natives--The Napier mail 252 CHAPTER XXII. FOREST COUNTRY. The start from Karioi--On the track--Te Wheu maps the country--The primeval solitude--Terangakaika Forest--The _flora_--Difficulties of travel--The lakes--Birds--Pakihi--Mangawhero River--Gigantic vines--Fallen trees--Dead forest giants--Mangatotara and Mangatuku Rivers--A "Slough of Despond"--Dismal swamp 258 CHAPTER XXIII. RUAKAKA. The _wharangi_ plant--Enormous ravines--Ruakaka--Reception by the Hauhaus--The chief Pareoterangi--The parley--Hinepareoterangi--A repast--Rapid fall of country--The Manganui-a-te-Ao--Shooting the rapids--The natives--Religion--Hauhauism--Te Kooti's lament--A Hauhau hymn 269 CHAPTER XXIV. NGATOKORUA PA. Departure from Ruakaka--A legend--Rough forest--Crossing the Manganui-a-te-Ao--Scenery of the river--Mount Towai--The plains in sight--Rapid rise in the country--Ruapehu from the west--The Waimarino plains--Arrival at the _pa_--The chief's family--A Hauhau chief--_Inter alia_--Pehi on the decay of the Maoris--A war-dance--The mere 281 CHAPTER XXV. HOT SPRINGS OF TONGARIRO.