My studies kept pace with my pleasures, slowly. I knew, by heart, the
Botanical Gardens of Athens; they were neither very beautiful nor very
full; it was a subject soon mastered. The Royal Gardens offered far
more to study: an intelligent Frenchman had collected for it all the
riches of the vegetable kingdom, from the palms of the West Indies to
the saxifrage of the North. I passed whole days there studying M.
Barraud's collections. The garden is public only at certain hours; but I
spoke Greek to the guards, and for love of the Greek, they permitted me
to enter. M. Barraud did not seem to weary of my company; he took me
everywhere for the pleasure of discussing Botany and speaking French. In
his absence, I hunted up the head gardener and questioned him in German:
it is well to be polyglot.
I searched for plants every day in the surrounding country, but never as
far from the city as I should like to have gone; there were many
brigands around Athens. I am not a coward, the following story will
prove it to you, but I love my life. It is a present which I received
from my parents; I wish to preserve it as long as possible, in
remembrance of my father and mother. In the month of April, 1856, it was
dangerous to go far from the city: it was even imprudent to live
outside. I did not venture upon the slopes of Lycabettus without
thinking of poor Mme. Daraud who was robbed in broad daylight. The hills
of Daphne recalled to me the capture of two French officers. Upon the
road to Piraeus, I thought, involuntarily, of the band of brigands who
traveled in six carriages as if on a pleasure tour, and who shot at
passers by from the coach doors. The road to Pentelicus recalled the
stopping of the Duchess de Plaisance, or the recent story of Harris and
Lobster's adventure. They were returning from an excursion, on two
Persian horses belonging to Harris, when they fell into an ambuscade.
Two brigands, weapons in hand, stopped them in the middle of a bridge.
They glanced all around and saw at their feet, in a ravine, a dozen
rascals, armed to the teeth, who were guarding fifty or sixty prisoners.
All who had passed that way since sunrise had been despoiled, then
bound, so that no one could escape to give the alarm. Harris and his
nephew were unarmed. Harris said to the young man in English: "Give up
your money; it will not pay to be killed for twenty dollars." The
brigands took the money, without letting go the bridles; they then
showed the Americans the ravine and signed to them to descend. Harris
now lost patience; it was repugnant to him to be bound; he was not the
kind of wood of which one makes fagots. He looked at the little Lobster,
and at the same instant, two fist blows like two chain-shots, struck the
heads of the two brigands. William's adversary fell over on his back, at
the same time, discharging his pistol; Harris' brigand, struck more
forcibly, toppled over the cliff and fell among his comrades. Harris and
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