The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and songWardrop, John Oliver
History
The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and song
Wardrop, John Oliver
Georgia (Republic) -- Bibliography; Georgia (Republic) -- Description and travel
Thursday afternoon is the best time for visiting the Church of
St. David, for a service is then held and large numbers of women
attend. Proceeding from Salalaki along Laboratornaya, which is
parallel to the Boulevard and is the most select street in Tiflis,
we reach the street of the Holy Mount (Mtatsmindskaya), a steep,
roughly-paved thoroughfare which leads up to St. David's Place, and
a winding mountain path takes us thence to the church. St. David
was a Syrian monk who came to Georgia in the sixth century, and
lived a hermit's life among the woods which at that time covered the
hill. Tradition says that the daughter of a wealthy man who lived near
there, finding herself in an interesting condition, thought the best
way of getting out of the difficulty would be to accuse the saint of
being the cause of this state of affairs. The holy man, naturally,
objected, and having made his accuser appear in an assembly of the
people, he proved his innocence by making the unborn child say audibly
who was its father. Whereupon, in answer to the prayers of the saint,
the child was converted into a stone, which the damsel brought forth
immediately. This stone was made the foundation of a church. David then
asked that a spring of living water of fructifying virtue might be made
to flow; this fountain is still visible, and its water is largely used
by married ladies; the climb of twenty minutes from St. David's Place
is so toilsome that even the most bitter Malthusian would hasten to
quench his thirst there; as far as I know, it is the only water in
Tiflis fit for human consumption. Every pious lady who visits the
shrine carries a stone or brick up the hill with her, and it is from
these that the church was built and is still kept in repair. There
is another interesting custom in which maidens and matrons alike take
part; after adoring the picture of the Virgin, the suppliant silently
walks round the building three times, unwinding as she goes a reel of
thread, fit symbol of the boundlessness of her love and veneration for
the Immaculate Mother of God. Then picking up one of the pebbles with
which the ground is covered, she rubs it against the plastered wall,
and with beating heart waits to see if it will stick--if it does,
then her prayer has been heard, the lass will have a sweetheart,
the wife will have a son. The church is of modern construction, but
its design differs in no respect from the ancient Byzantine style,
specimens of which may be seen all over Georgia. The interior is
like that of any other Greek church, and on the walls there are some
quaint but rather crude pictures. The mass is, of course, in Georgian,
and the choral service strikes rather strangely on Western ears,
although not wanting in melody.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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