The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and songWardrop, John Oliver
History
The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and song
Wardrop, John Oliver
Georgia (Republic) -- Bibliography; Georgia (Republic) -- Description and travel
An Armenian prisoner who had risen to the
dignity of chief eunuch in the Shah's household, and two women, an
Armenian and a German, from the harem of a powerful personage, fled
to the Russian ambassador and asked him to assist them to return to
Russian territory. Griboyedov insisted that, according to the treaty
of peace, all prisoners had a right to freedom, and he refused to give
up the refugees. On the 30th of January, 1829, a mad, yelling crowd of
100,000 men made an attack on the embassy. Griboyedov, sword in hand,
led out his handful of horsemen and was immediately killed; only one
member of the embassy escaped death. It was Griboyedov's wish that he
should be buried in Georgia, and they chose this romantic spot which
the poet had loved so much during his stay in Tiflis. The beautiful
Nina remained faithful to her husband's memory, and mourned for him
eight-and-twenty years, until she was carried up the winding path to
share his grave.
The view from the churchyard is a splendid one; the whole city, with
its wonderful diversity of form and colour, lies at your feet; on
the right you can see far along the Kakhetian road, and on the left
the great highway to Vladikavkaz follows the winding course of the
Kura. In the evening we often climbed to the top of a bare crag not
far from the church, carrying with us a large earthenware flagon of
wine, a roast leg of mutton, fruit, cucumbers, and other delicacies,
and spreading out our cloaks on the ground lay there making merry,
singing and telling tales until long after midnight; the lights of the
town below us seemed like a reflection of the bright stars above us,
and the music and laughter of many a jovial group came up the hillside
to mingle with our own.
After descending the hill, we cross the Boulevard at the publishing
office of Kavkaz, the official organ, and skirting the Alexandrovskii
Garden, soon reach the finest bridge in the town, Vorontsovskii Most,
from which we get an interesting view of the waterside part of the
Asiatic quarter; most of the houses have balconies overhanging the
river, and one is involuntarily reminded of the Tiber banks at Rome. On
the other side of the bridge, in a small square, is a statue of Prince
Vorontsov, Governor of the Caucasus, from 1844 to 1854. During my
stay the good people of that district were astonished one morning to
see the Prince's head surmounted by a tall, well-worn sheepskin hat,
such as the Lesghians wear; the effect was exceedingly ridiculous,
and the youthful revellers who, at considerable risk of breaking
their necks, were the authors of the joke, were well rewarded for
their pains by the laughter of all who passed that way, for your
Georgian is a merry fellow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account