The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and song — John Shaqi
The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and songWardrop, John Oliver
History
The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and song
Wardrop, John Oliver
Georgia (Republic) -- Bibliography; Georgia (Republic) -- Description and travel
The Cathedral of Sion is, as we said before, as old as the city
itself, but, of course, it has suffered considerably at the hands of
destroyers and restorers. Its style is the same as that of all the
other churches in Georgia, and it doubtless served as a pattern for
most of them. The inside has been tastefully decorated in modern times,
and produces a pleasing effect, although it seems small to anybody
who is familiar with the cathedrals of Europe. In front of the altar
is the Cross of St. Nina, formed of two vine branches bound together
with the saint's hair; this cross has always been the most sacred
relic in Georgia. There is also a modest tomb, which contains the
body of Prince Tsitsishvili, a Georgian who was appointed Governor
of the Caucasus by Alexander I., and who, after a glorious career,
was foully murdered outside the walls of Baku by the treacherous khan
of that city.
From the cathedral the way to the European quarter leads through
the so-called Armenian Bazar, one of the most interesting parts of
the city. Old arms, coats of mail, helmets and shields, such as are
still used by the Khevsurs up in the mountains, silver ornaments and
many other interesting trifles, may be purchased here, but nothing of
great value is offered for sale, and the jewellery, with the exception
of filigree work from Akhaltsikhe (which is hard to get and very
expensive) is not very good. On the birthday of the Tsarevich, I was
walking down to the cathedral in order to be present at High Mass,
when I saw an incident thoroughly characteristic of the arbitrary
proceedings of the Russian police. A burly gorodovoi, clad in white
uniform and fully armed, was forcing the Asiatic shopkeepers in the
bazar to close their premises in order to do honour to the son of
the autocrat. I remembered how I had seen the Turkish soldiery in
Jerusalem perform a similar task a few months before, when the young
Prince of Naples entered the Holy City; it is true that the Turks
went a step further than the Muscovites, for they drove the people
out into the main street, and refused to let them go home until the
evening, but the idea was the same in both cases. The best native
tailor of Tiflis lives in this neighbourhood, and I had the honour
of having a Circassian suit made for me by him; it fitted like a
glove. I may say that, although a great many people in Tiflis wear
European dress, in the country it is almost unknown. I found that
for travelling there is nothing better than the Circassian garb;
it stands a great deal of rough usage, and always looks respectable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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