The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and songWardrop, John Oliver
History
The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and song
Wardrop, John Oliver
Georgia (Republic) -- Bibliography; Georgia (Republic) -- Description and travel
As we clattered down the steep rocky streets which lead to the
Boulevard, I had not much time to look round; all my attention
was necessary to preserve myself from falling out of the cart,
the jolting was terrible. However, by the time we had got to the
outskirts of the town the road became much smoother; the driver got
down and released the clappers of the bells above the middle horse's
head, and we rattled along merrily to the tune of eight miles an
hour. Just outside the city an imposing cruciform monument marks the
spot where the late Tsar's carriage was overturned without injuring
his Majesty. Passing the Sakartvelo Gardens, where the good people of
Tiflis often dine in vine-covered bowers by the river-side, we cross
the Vera, an important tributary of the Kura, and then enter a broad
plain which continues for many miles to the westward.
On the other side of the Kura we see Mushtaid; a little farther
on is the pretty German colony of Alexandersdorf, with its poplar
avenues, neat houses, and modest little white church. All the German
colonies in the Caucasus seem to be exactly alike, and they do
not in any respect differ from German villages in the fatherland;
the colonists altogether ignore the people of the country in which
they have settled, and, although they make a comfortable livelihood,
their isolated condition and the absence of all European influence
must make their lives very narrow and joyless. Some of these colonies
were founded in order to set before the native peasantry examples
of good agriculture and farm management, but this worthy object has
not been attained, and the Teutons are looked upon with feelings
generally of indifference, sometimes of positive ill-will. High on
the hills behind the colony stands the white monastery of St. Antony,
a favourite place for picnics. In the cliffs on the left of our road
are numerous holes, variously conjectured to be troglodyte dwellings
(like those at Uphlis Tsikhe), rock tombs, places of refuge in time
of war, provision stores, &c. Before us we see the road winding up
between the hills in a northerly direction, and after crossing the
Transcaucasian railway and then the Kura we arrive at the post-house
of Mtzkhet, not far from the village of that name.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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