The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and songWardrop, John Oliver
History
The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and song
Wardrop, John Oliver
Georgia (Republic) -- Bibliography; Georgia (Republic) -- Description and travel
the persecutions of Diocletian, left Jerusalem to spread the good
tidings in Armenia; St. Nina went with them as far as Vashgarabada,
and then pursued her journey alone. As she was entering the city of
Mtzkhet, the king of Georgia, Marian, with all his people, went out
to a hill in the neighbourhood to offer human sacrifices to idols,
but in answer to her prayer a mighty storm arose and destroyed
the images. She took up her abode in a cell in the king's garden,
and soon became well-known as a healer of the sick. At length the
queen fell ill, and St. Nina, having made her whole in the name
of Jesus, converted the Georgian court to Christianity, and in 314
A.D. baptized all the people of the city. Over the spot in the royal
garden where her cell had been, the king built the Samtavr church,
which still exists, and lies to the left of the post-road. It was
then revealed to St. Nina that the tunic, the object of her search,
lay buried under a cedar in the middle of the town; the tree was cut
down and the robe was found in the hands of the dead girl. On the
spot where the cedar stood King Marian built, in 328, the Cathedral
of the Twelve Apostles; the cedar was replaced by a column, and this
column is said to drip myrrh occasionally, even in these degenerate
days of ours. The sacred garment was preserved in the cathedral until
the seventeenth century, when Shah Abbas sent it as a present to the
Tsar of Russia, Mikhail Fedorovich. It was solemnly deposited in the
Cathedral of the Assumption at Moscow, where I saw it last autumn.
Having evangelized Kartli, St. Nina proceeded to Kakheti, where she
met with the same success, and died at Bodbé, near Signakh; her tomb is
in a monastery overlooking one of the finest landscapes in all Kakheti.
The Cathedral of the Twelve Apostles is the chief place of interest in
Mtzkhet. The original church was of wood, but in 378 it was replaced
by a stone edifice, which stood until the invasion of Tamerlane. The
existing church was built in the fifteenth century. A stone wall, with
ruined towers, encloses a rectangular piece of ground, in which stands
the cathedral, a fine building about seventy paces long by twenty-five
paces broad. It is in the Byzantine style, and the interior is divided
into three parts by two rows of columns. Here lie buried the last
kings of Georgia and their families, the patriarchs of the church,
and other illustrious persons.
The post-house at Mtzkhet was a pleasant surprise to me, but I found
nearly all the stations on this road equally comfortable; in many
of them there are bed-rooms, a dining-room, a ladies' room, and one
can get white bread and European food. Those who have travelled on
post-roads in Russia will readily understand my surprise.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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