The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and songWardrop, John Oliver
History
The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and song
Wardrop, John Oliver
Georgia (Republic) -- Bibliography; Georgia (Republic) -- Description and travel
To the eastward of Pasanaur live the Khevsurs, Pshavs and Tushes,
peoples probably having a common origin, and speaking a language akin
to Georgian. Their number is variously estimated, from twenty to thirty
thousand. They live in a very primitive way, and the Khevsurs still
clothe themselves in chain armour and helmets; this circumstance, added
to the fact that they have long been Christians, has given rise to
the supposition that they are descended from a party of Crusaders who
lost their way in trying to return to Europe overland, and settled in
these valleys. Their country is among the wildest in the whole range,
and their villages are perched high up among the rocks, like eagles'
nests. The Khevsurs live chiefly on the scanty products of agriculture;
the Pshavs and Tushes are pastoral peoples, in winter they drive
their flocks down into Kakheti, and when the snow among the mountains
begins to melt they return to their native valleys. All these tribes
are wild and brave to the highest degree; from the earliest times
they have formed part of the Georgian kingdom, and have distinguished
themselves in many a battle against the infidel. The Christianity of
this region is not so elaborate as that of Rome or Byzantium, but I
suppose it is quite as reasonable as that of the Russian muzhik or
the English farm-labourer; they have made a saint of Queen Tamara,
and they worship the god of war and several other deities in addition
to the God Christ. Irakli II. tried to reform their theology, but they
replied, "If we, with our present worship, are firm in our obedience
and loyalty to the king, what more does he ask of us?" There are now
many Orthodox Greek Churches in the villages, but the people totally
ignore their existence.
After leaving Pasanaur the road bends to the westward, leaving on
the right a high table-shaped mountain of granite which has for a
long time seemed to bar our progress; we still keep close to the
Aragva, and the scenery becomes bolder, and the soil more barren;
here and there we see high up on the face of the rock a cluster of
Osset houses; from the valley they look like small dark holes in
the cliffs. Pushkin has described them as "swallows' nests," and no
happier name could have been chosen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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