The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and songWardrop, John Oliver
History
The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and song
Wardrop, John Oliver
Georgia (Republic) -- Bibliography; Georgia (Republic) -- Description and travel
Vladikavkaz, 200 versts from Tiflis, lies at the foot of the Caucasus,
at a height of 2368 feet. The best hotel is the Pochtovaya, at
the post-station; the Frantsiya is also good. Vladikavkaz means,
in Russian, "master of the Caucasus" (cf. Vladivostok, Vladimir,
&c.--root vlad is akin to German walt-en, Gewalt); the Cherkesses
(Circassians) call it Kapkai, "gate of the mountains." It has
a population of over 30,000 souls, chiefly Russians, Cherkesses,
Georgians, Armenians, Persians, besides a strong garrison. A fortress
was built here in 1784, but the town never became a trading centre of
much importance until the war with Shamil; even now one is astonished
to see how little activity them is in a place through which nearly all
the overland traffic between Europe and Western Asia passes. Several
chimney stalks bear witness to the existence of industry, but the
only manufactory of any size is a spirit distillery. The silver work
of Vladikavkaz is renowned throughout the whole Caucasus, and is much
used for dagger hilts and sheaths, belts, &c.
The city is built on the banks of the Terek, which is here crossed by
several bridges; the best quarter is on the right bank, where there are
cool, shady gardens by the waterside, and a very respectable-looking
boulevard. A few of the streets are fairly well paved, and there are
one or two comfortable-looking houses with pleasant grounds; but on
the whole the place is not one that anybody would care to settle down
in. Were it not for the frequency with which one sees Asiatic costumes,
and hears Asiatic tongues, and the fact that the frosty Caucasus may
be seen, apparently perpendicular, rising to its loftiest points,
it would be easy to imagine oneself in some provincial town not 100
versts from Moscow, instead of being 2000 versts from it.
When you have lounged in the gardens, and on the boulevard, visited
the cathedral, which is still in course of construction, the market,
the military school, and the old fortress, you have obtained all the
diversion that is to be had in Vladikavkaz, unless you are fortunate
enough to find the little theatre open, and the best thing to be
done is to take the morning train to the Mineral Waters station (186
versts in nine hours) for the town called Five Mountains (Pyatigorsk),
about twenty versts from the railway, which for almost a hundred
years has enjoyed the reputation of being the most fashionable inland
watering-place in the Russian Empire.
THE KAKHETIAN ROAD--TIFLIS TO SIGNAKH.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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