The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and songWardrop, John Oliver
History
The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and song
Wardrop, John Oliver
Georgia (Republic) -- Bibliography; Georgia (Republic) -- Description and travel
It takes a long time to mount to the summit of Gambori. This
winding road had only recently been opened to traffic, and there is
no posting yet. The best means of conveyance is the daily coach,
and it is a slow and uncomfortable vehicle. I had been advised to
make a good meal at Gambori station, and, as the coach waits there
for half an hour, I entered the dukhan, or wine-shop, with this
object in view. Alas! nothing was to be had but vodka, tobacco, and
matches! Beyond Gambori the scenery becomes quite English-looking
for a time. There is abundance of game of all kinds, and I saw two
fine deer run across the road behind us. Climbing to a grassy knoll,
bare of trees, we arrived at length at the Pass of Gambori, deservedly
called Cold Mountain (6044 feet above sea level, and thirty-four versts
from Telav), and, leaving Kakheti behind us, descended into the valley
of the Iora and the province of Kartli. Passing the ruined castle
of Verena, built in the fifth century by King Gurgaslan, we enjoy an
ever-changing view of indescribable loveliness all the way to Lager.
Lager, as the name indicates, is a military post, and is of some
importance on account of its position, about half-way between Tiflis
and Telav; it is the summer quarters of a brigade. The garrison was
not at that time very large, but there was some talk of increasing it;
indeed, we met a couple of hundred men and half a dozen guns only a
few versts beyond the village. The heat was terrible, and we could
not help pitying the poor soldiers, who were cursing and sweating
as they toiled up the mountain side. The radical schoolmaster began
to descant on the advantages of universal disarmament, but he was
interrupted by a good little peasant woman from the Russian colony
at Lager, who replied that it was certainly very hard, but "if we
had not a large army the English would come and make slaves of us all."
The next station was Udjarma, a fortress of great importance from the
third century to the fifteenth, but now an uninteresting place, chiefly
remarkable for the fact that the village graveyard is on the top of
a very steep, isolated hill. From this point the road becomes dull;
it crosses a bare, windy plain, and is as wearisome as the Signakh
road, which it meets near Vaziani. The white church of St. David's
was soon seen glittering in the sun; then Orkhevi was passed, and not
long after sunset we entered Tiflis, hot, dusty, tired, and hungry,
after our journey of 70 versts. I spent two days in Tiflis, where
the heat had by that time become stifling; then I regretfully doffed
my Circassian garb, and again submitted to the bondage of the stiff
linen collar. On the afternoon of the third day I was in Baku.
THE HISTORY OF GEORGIA.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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