The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and songWardrop, John Oliver
History
The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and song
Wardrop, John Oliver
Georgia (Republic) -- Bibliography; Georgia (Republic) -- Description and travel
The only daily train leaves at eight o'clock in the morning; the
station, although it is a terminus of so much importance, is a wretched
wooden building, a striking contrast to the one at Baku, which would
not disgrace our own metropolis. The railway skirts the sea for about
thirty miles, and on the right lies a range of hills covered with a
luxuriant growth of fine forest-trees and thick undergrowth gay with
blossoms; in the neighbourhood of the town there are already many
pretty villas. The rain of the previous few weeks had made the woods
wonderfully beautiful, and the moist air was heavy with fragrance;
I never saw such a wealth of plant life before. At Samtredi, where
the lines from Batum and Poti meet, we leave Guri and Mingreli
behind us and enter Imereti. On the left we now have a fine broad
plain, and near us flows the Rion, the ancient Phasis. The country
is far more thickly populated than Guri or Mingreli, or any other
part of Trans-Caucasia, but it could easily support a much larger
number if the ground were properly worked. I was amazed when I saw,
for the first time, five pairs of oxen dragging one wooden plough,
but the sight of this became familiar to me before I had lived long
in Georgia. At the roadside stations (I need hardly say that our
train stopped at all of them) I saw some fine faces--one poor fellow
in a ragged sheepskin cloak quite startled me by his resemblance to
Dante Alighieri. From the station of Rion, on the river of that name,
a branch line runs northward to Kutaïs, none other than the Cyta in
Colchis whence Jason carried off Medea and the Golden Fleece.
Kutaïs (Hôtel de France, Hôtel Colchide, Hôtel d'Italie) is a
beautiful town of 25,000 inhabitants, almost all Georgians. The
ruins of an old castle on the other side of the river show where
the town stood a century ago, and from this point the best view of
Kutaïs is obtained. Abundance of good building-stone, a rich soil,
and plenty of trees, render the capital of Imereti a charming sight;
its elevation of about 500 feet makes its atmosphere cool and bracing
compared with that of the coast-towns. The traveller who wishes to
become acquainted with Georgian town-life cannot do better than stay
in Kutaïs a month or two. About five miles off is the monastery of
Gelati, built in the tenth century, and renowned as the burial-place
of the glorious Queen Tamara. From Kutaïs a journey may be made to
Svaneti, the last Caucasian state conquered by Russia, and even now
only nominally a part of the Tsar's dominions; Mr. Wolley's book,
"Savage Svanetia," will give the intending visitor some idea of the
sport that may be had in that wild region. The road across the Caucasus
from Kutaïs to Vladikavkaz is much higher and wilder than the famous
Dariel road, and I much regret that I had not time to travel by it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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