The Kingdom of the Yellow Robe: Being Sketches of the Domestic and Religious Rites and Ceremonies of the SiameseYoung, Ernest
Religion
The Kingdom of the Yellow Robe: Being Sketches of the Domestic and Religious Rites and Ceremonies of the Siamese
Young, Ernest
Thailand -- Religious life and customs; Thailand -- Social life and customs
The sketch of the figure given in this book is the only drawing of
the idol in existence, and no photo has ever been taken by any of
the local photographers owing to the darkness of the interior. It
was only on payment of a heavy bribe that the caretaker allowed the
artist to put up his easel. After further debate, followed by a
fee, he condescended to open a few more windows so as to admit
sufficient light to render any sketching possible. While the sketch
was being made, a small piece of the gilded lacquer fell from the
chest of the recumbent idol. In less time almost than it takes to
write of the occurrence, the windows were closed, the place veiled in
utter darkness, and the artist unceremoniously requested to leave the
building. The man evidently expected the whole structure to fall upon
his unlucky head as a punishment for allowing the sacred place to be
so desecrated by the white man. Doubtless by this time the caretaker
has worked off the demerit he earned that day, by devoting some of the
money he then received to purchasing merit in one of the many ways
known to him.
In the grounds of Wat Poh there are several ponds, shaded by
magnificent trees, and surrounded by grotesque figures in stone. These
ponds are the homes of a few alligators, which are kept and fed by the
priests and servants of the temple.
Almost opposite to Wat Poh, on the other bank of the river, is
Wat Chang, a marvel to every one who has ever seen it. The actual
"bote," the priests' houses, and the relic mounds are in no respect
extraordinary, but on the bank of the river is a huge monument
consisting of a series of pagodas resting on a square base. It is this
collection of pinnacles that attracts and charms the eye. Their form
is not that of the slender-spired "prachadee," but that of a bluntly
pointed pyramid, and they are known as "praprang." Viewed from a
little distance, they look, as any photo shows, like a collection of
beautifully carved stone pinnacles, but a closer view reveals the fact
that they are only made of brick and plaster and covered with divers
figures made of broken plates and saucers. Thousands upon thousands
of pieces of cheap china must have been smashed to bits in order to
furnish sufficient material to decorate this curious structure. It
must be admitted that though the material is tawdry, the effect is
indescribably wonderful. It is not until one stands close to the work
itself that it is possible to realise that the elaborate designs and
the quaint figures are merely so many pieces of common china. The
tallest of the pagodas, the one in the centre, can be seen from many
points in the city, and by ascending the steps that lead half way up
to the summit, a magnificent view of the capital itself is gained. The
winding river and the broad canals shine like ribbons of burnished
silver; the houses are hidden beneath masses of foliage, from amongst
whose leafy crowns the prettily coloured roofs and the graceful white
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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