The Knickerbocker, Vol. 10, No. 5, November 1837Various
History
The Knickerbocker, Vol. 10, No. 5, November 1837
Various
Periodicals
LUZERNE, AUGUST 30.--In company with a couple of very agreeable
English gentlemen, who had just returned from Italy, we took a boat
at Alpnach, and were rowed down the Lake of the Four Cantons to this
beautiful place. This lake is one of the largest, and certainly the
most picturesque, in Switzerland, being irregular in its shape,
indented with little bays, and affording, in its whole extent, every
variety of scenery. After doubling several of its promontories, in a
sail of two hours, we landed almost on the very steps of the favorite
'Hotel de Cygne' at Luzerne. It is a capital house, close to the
water, and as we sit at dinner, we have on one side a fine panoramic
view of the Bay of Naples, and, on the other, the _real_ panorama of
this beautiful lake and surrounding mountains.
We dined sumptuously at the _table d'hôte_, and then walked out to a
garden in the suburbs to see a famous piece of sculpture from a model
by Thorwaldsen, the Swedish artist. It is a colossal lion, pierced
with a barb, cut out on the side of a hill of rock, and under it
are inscribed the names of the Swiss guards who fell in the French
revolutions of '89 and '30. It is remarkable that Swiss soldiers
are yet employed as the body-guards of the kings of France, Naples,
etc., as more trustworthy than their own people. These guards are
formally 'let out' by the Swiss government; but how such a proceeding
is compatible with national honor, I am at a loss to conceive. There
are two covered wooden bridges at Luzerne, each fourteen hundred feet
long: the interiors are adorned with curious old paintings, of the
Dutch school, comprising a regular series of scripture subjects.
You will recollect that this is the place from whence the travellers
set out in the graphic opening scene of 'Anne of Gierstein.' It is in
the vicinity of the scenes of Tell's exploits, of the battle-field
of Sempach, and many other interesting spots. The gloomy and
'cloud-capt' brow of Mount Pilatus, where tradition says Pontius
Pilate threw himself into the lake! is a conspicuous object on one
side; and opposite, is the isolated Mount Rhigi, on the top of which
we propose to lodge to-night, as all faithful travellers here do, for
the sake of 'the most magnificent sunset and sunrise prospect which
the world affords.'
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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