The Knickerbocker, Vol. 10, No. 5, November 1837 — John Shaqi
The Knickerbocker, Vol. 10, No. 5, November 1837Various
History
The Knickerbocker, Vol. 10, No. 5, November 1837
Various
Periodicals
There was ringing of bells, and firing of cannon, which made a
tremendous echo across the lake, but for what cause I did not learn.
At Zug I got dinner, and a direction to a by-path 'across lots' of
potatoe-fields to Horgern, on the Zurich See, where I was to take
the steam-boat to this place. I was alone, and not a soul on the way
could speak any thing but vulgar German. I was stared at as if from
the clouds; and albeit not conscious, like the third Richard, of any
special deformity, yet,
'As I passed, the dogs did bark at me.'
At one village, a cur at the first house commenced the salute, which
was continued to the last, by every
'Mongrel, puppy, whelp, and hound,
And cur of low degree.'
The folks did not know what I meant by Horgern, because I did not
_roll_ it out with their horrid nasal pronunciation. I stopped to
fill my flask at a spring, and had the luck to learn of a farmer
that I was going just the wrong way. At length, after achieving
another mountain, a splendid landscape was spread out before me; the
beautiful Lake of Zurich, bordered with vineyards, and neat villages,
flanked by another range of snow-capped Alps. With staff in hand, and
knapsack on back, as I approached
'The margin of fair Zurich's waters,'
I met a posse of 'fair Zurich's daughters,' and of course doffed my
beaver to the fairest, whereat they were all vastly tickled, and
perhaps a little jealous of the 'favored one' (a-hem!) but _bon
jour_, or 'alack-well-a-day,' was all I could say, so I proceeded
to the 'margin,' found there was no steam-boat, hired a boat, took
in a lady, who applied for a passage, and pushed off for Zurich. It
was a lovely afternoon, and as pretty a sail as I have yet had. I
had this morning seen the sun rise from the summit of the Rhigi; and
now, after walking thirty-five miles in nine hours, under his hottest
beams, I saw him set on the Lake of Zurich. This lake is nearly
twenty miles long. As we came near the town, we passed several
charming pleasure-gardens, on the very margin of the water. Zurich
is situated much like Geneva, being built on both sides of the rapid
stream which flows out at the head of the lake. It is quite a large
and city-like place, and evidently a flourishing one. I saw several
large buildings in the course of erection. The walks and rides in its
environs, and the sail on its waters, are delightful in the extreme.
It was eight o'clock, P. M., when my boatmen landed me on the dock,
and it was with no little trouble that I found the _Gastoff Zum
Schwardt_, or Hotel de L'Epèe, for my pronunciation of the name would
not pass. It is a good inn, near the lake, but always full, and very
dear. Mine host politely gave me a ticket for the town museum and
reading-room. I had sent my luggage here by diligence from Luzerne,
and expected to meet my Rhigi companion; but he does not appear,
and I must proceed alone to the Rhine and Germany, 'unknowing and
unknown.'
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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