The Knickerbocker, Vol. 10, No. 5, November 1837Various
History
The Knickerbocker, Vol. 10, No. 5, November 1837
Various
Periodicals
And, strange to say, I was the first, after all, to hint that there
was a republic usually called the United States of America. It did
not occur to him, at the moment, that the English language was known
to _some_ extent in 'our country;' but singularly enough, when the
happy land was mentioned, I found him far from being ignorant of it.
He had read of our 'manners' from his own Duke of Saxe-Weimar down
to Captain Hall and the Trollope; and he was now writing a critical
essay on American poetry. In short, he was Dr. O. L. B. WOLFF,
professor of belles-lettres in the University of Jena; the author,
you will recollect, of the History of German Literature in the
London Athenæum, and of other essays which have made his name well
known with us. He seemed a good deal interested in our literature,
and we beguiled the hours far into the night, in learned talk,
parting near the battle-field of Jena, with mutual promises of future
correspondence.
The road lies over several memorable fields. Near Lutzen, they
pointed to a stone, '_Voila la, Gustave tombeau!_' It was the spot
where the 'Great Gustavus' Adolphus fell, in the thirty years' war.
We passed the house where Charles XII. of Sweden signed his treaty
with the Elector of Saxony. At Erfurt is the cell where Martin Luther
lived when he was an Augustine friar. At Gotha, Weimar, Eisenbach,
and Fulda, the capitals of their respective duchies, are the
'chateaux de residence.'
The approaches to most of the continental towns are through long
avenues, shaded by elms or poplars, extending sometimes a couple of
miles. One naturally looks for something handsome, after passing such
an imposing portal; but it does not always follow. One of the finest
of these triumphal arches leads to a filthy hamlet, which would
disgrace our backwoods.
They have a peculiar costume, at one of these towns; but in general,
there is no costume in Germany. Both at Frankfort and Leipsic, I
noticed two remarkable items, the Jews and the pretty girls. The
Jews wear long black gowns and girdles, with beards of nearly equal
length. They seem to be here a distinct and 'peculiar people.' As to
the German ladies, there is certainly more beauty among them than I
have seen elsewhere in Europe.
My second entrance into Frankfort was from a better point of view,
crossing the stone bridge over the Main. I had been riding four
nights, _sans_ sleep, and in the vulgar phrase, was 'quite done up.'
It was of course delightful to find that the 'fair' had so thoroughly
filled the domicils of every publican in the place, that not a nook
or a corner in all those immense hotels was to be had for love or
money. I wandered here and there, houseless and alone, till dusk,
with a fair prospect of a loafer-like lodging in the street! This was
actually the only alternative to going off at ten, P. M., to Mayence.
There were probably at least ten thousand strangers in the place at
that moment.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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